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Lightning Precautions

Joined
Jun 19, 2005
Messages
884
Location
New Mexico
Something I wanted to ask you guys… What precautions do you take with lightning (in regards to equipment setup)? The only reason I ask, is with 4 external antennas all having cords eventually running to a piece of electronic equipment (i.e. laptop) that I’m usually touching, it’s been on my mind a little more. Anyway to ease my perhaps paranoid mind. I know the car is suppose to act like a Faraday cage, but not sure with the cords...
 
A Faraday's Cage - Yes...But (and there is always one of these)...

When there is a cable coming into the cage - it can now become a hazard. Remember your Ham test and the study guide - concerning station procedures if a lightning storm approaches? You were instructed to disconnect all antenna coax and put them out of the radio room ('outside') and unplug all equipment for the power/wall receptacles.

EDIT:
When I have been real close to lightning in my vehicle - it becomes a mad rush to disconnect everything. Including the laptop power supply - and then just run on the laptop battery - or just shut it off altogether. After a real close call in Elgin NE a couple of years back - it was enough for me...
 
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This comes up periodically, however it's something that's hard to find decent information on.

Buildings and vehicles react differently to lightning charges (unless the building is mostly metal and isolated from ground.. hard to do).

You can look at the aviation industry for information that will apply here; aircraft and vehicles will react somewhat similarly to direct/indirect lightning strikes.

The difference however is in the level of "bonding"; While aircraft are generally painstakingly well bonded, cars from the factory are usually rather poor in comparison. Many of our mobile installations can add to the trouble.

Let's be clear here though; regardless of any measures taken a direct strike on a car is likely going to cause damage. It is far more likely however that you will be affected by an indirect strike.

My personal precautions are to use proper mobile installation techniques where possible. Most people will not want to do that however since it involves permanent mounts.
 
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I unplug my laptop when they start getting real close and move to a different spot. I'm sure most would agree it gets pretty crazy at times.
If lightning can cause power outages in entire towns then there's probably not a magic bullet except surge protection (that usually gets fried).
 
Ah, an ancient topic still worthy of discussion. I'll repost something I posted to Storm Track (the email list) a long, long time ago -- it's a reply I got from a guru on this topic from Usenet, Gary Coffman.

This is a forwarded message
From: Ryan <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Date: Monday, July 14, 2003, 9:00:29 PM
Subject: Followup post on question of mobile HAM/scnanner lightning hazards

===8<==============Original message text===============
Hello! A while back I posed the question to this list: "Do mobile
HAM/Scanner/TV/whatever antennas compromise the faraday cage of your
car, thus making them a lightning hazard for those inside the car?"
Someone here pointed me in the direction of a guru named Gary Coffman
on Usenet. He doesn't hang around on Usenet any more, but he was nice
enough to respond to my personal email. His comments are interesting
and of value to chasers, so I'm reposting them here. Turns out it's
possible to create a very lighting-safe car antenna setup, but that
it's a lot more work than most chasers would go through.

--Begin FWD--

From: "Gary Coffman" <(Ask Me If You Need To Know - Ryan)@bellsouth.net>
To: "Ryan" <[email protected]>
References: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Lightning dangers from Faraday's cage compromise while storm chasing/spotting?
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 16:06:23 -0400

> I've done a bit of back research on my question, and I think I have
> much of it answered. Mainly, I'm concerned that I may be introducing
> a lightning hazard into the passenger compartment of my car by using a
> magmount scanner antenna. The antenna is mounted to the trunk of my
> car and the coax is run through through the rear trunk gap, into the
> trunk, up through a gap at the edge of the rear seat upholstery, along
> the floorwell, and to a handheld scanner attached via velcro to the
> dash on the passenger side.
>
> From what I've read, it seems that this pretty much defeats the
> Faraday's cage, as I'd feared. Since I primarily use the scanner to
> find severe storms which usually contain awe-inspiring displays of CG
> lightning, this is a disconcerting thing to discover.

Yes, that certainly does destroy the integrity of the Faraday cage.
A hollow closed conductor will have all the current on the *outside*.
But if you provide a penetration via a unsuppressed cable to the
inside, it will bring a very high potential inside. Internal arcs then
become a very real concern.

> But I still wonder: how much of a risk is it to have this set up?
> Assuming for a moment that the mag mount antenna is directly struck,
> what is the most likely effect? Would the bulk of the current follow
> the coax into the passenger compartment, or would the current likely
> jump at some point from the coax to the car body? Seeing as my
> handheld scanner is not grounded, whereas my car body sort of is, I
> would hope so -- but part of me fears that by the time the actual
> discharge is occurring, the charge may simply go as far as it can along
> a conductive path (i.e., to my handheld scanner) and then find a new
> path -- even if that means arcing around in the inside of my car and
> blowing a hole through something not normally conductive.

That's right. Understand that a direct strike entails about 20,000 amperes
at millions of volts. Serious stuff. It wants to find a path to Earth, and
it will
explore every available conductor as a way to find one. The current will
divide in inverse proportion to the impedances of the various paths. In
other words, the largest part of the current will take the lowest impedance
path. But every path will be electrified, and until a low impedance path is
found, every path will be at a very high potential. So arcing is a virtual
certainty.

The eventual path to Earth will most likely involve arcing across the
tires from the wheel rim to Earth. If the car does take a direct strike,
it is likely the wheel bearings will be scored and will have to be replaced.
If having the vehicle struck is considered likely, it might be worthwhile
to install a light chain from the frame to Earth, ie a classic grounding
strap. This will offer a lower impedance path to Earth, and may save
the wheel bearings. OTOH, it may increase the likelyhood that the
vehicle will be struck in the first place.

> Honsetly, I could give a flip if the scanner was damaged or
> destroyed. What I'm worried about is getting zapped. Is internal
> arcing a reasonable possibility if my mag mount is directly struck? Is
> there any way to minimize the danger? Mostly you seem to recommend
> using polyphasers at the drilled coax entry point in order to give the
> lightning enough resistance to cause it to opt to follow the body of
> the car instead of the coax. But I'm not so keen on drilling holes in
> the car body; if there were a way to effectively use a polyphaser
> without drilling holes in the body, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

There's really no alternative to maintaining the integrity of the
Faraday cage. You don't have to use Polyphaser products, but you
do have to provide a very low impedance path for the current to take
to the car's outer skin. You can use a shunt fed grounded antenna
(note I don't mean Earth ground), or a slot radiator, but that's going to
entail drilling and bolting, or welding, to the car body too.

Note that the scanner, and you, aren't the only things at risk. Your
car's computers (modern cars have several) are also at extreme
hazard. They are very expensive to replace, and the car won't run
if one is damaged. So you have a large financial incentive to avoid
leading large potentials inside the vehicle even if you don't care
about your radio equipment.

> I thought about trying a glass mount antenna, but then I figured
> that that would be just as bad; I'm guessing lightning can easily jump
> through a fourth inch of glass to get to a highly conductive coax
> cable, and that's probably preferable to jumping a good foot through
> air to get to the car body.

Yeah, not to mention that glass mount antennas are poor antennas
anyway.

The big problem with any vertical rod antenna is that it is going to
break into corona and streamer formation as the field intensity
builds. This makes it the most likely target of a strike. In other words,
it behaves as a classic Franklin lightning rod. So if you can avoid
using a whip antenna, the probability of the car being struck by
lightning is reduced.

A shunt fed loop antenna, a slot antenna, or a patch antenna, all
directly body grounded, are alternatives to the vertical rod. A patch
antenna could be mounted to the inside of the glass. That would
eliminate streamer formation and a penetration of the Faraday cage
of the body. But a VHF patch antenna would be fairly large, about
19 inches on a side. That would obscure vision from that window.
A slot antenna would also be quite large at VHF. Both would also
be directional if mounted in a window. That would be a problem
as you changed directions.

A DDRR loop could be mounted on the roof. It is very low profile,
similar to a luggage rack in appearance, but it needs a very good
electrical connection to the roof to form a vertically polarized omni
pattern. So you're back to drilling and bolting, or welding, to the car
body.

Now I should say that lightning strikes on cars are fairly rare. I
should also say that the car windows make the body less than a
perfect Faraday cage anyway. But fixing a vertical whip antenna
on the car does increase the odds of it being struck, and leading
the signal inside the car with an unsuppressed coax does increase
the likelyhood of an internal arc which could harm you, or the car's
expensive electronics.

If I were storm chasing, I'd give this serious thought. I'd want to
use an antenna form that isn't as apt to break into streamer
formation as a vertical whip, and I'd suppress the coax where it
enters the vehicle. That means some holes in the car, but I consider
that a minor issue compared to what could happen to the car, or
you, if lightning were to strike the setup you now have.

Gary

--End FWD--
 
Thanks Ryan now I'm all the sudden fearful of lightning from within my car shooting stills with the camera attached to the window. I'm in the top 1% of people scared of lightning while out of the vehicle. I can't stand running from my car to the apartment when lightning is out. Yet I'm in the bottom 1% or less of those fearing lightning in a car. I'm eager for extremely close bolts then. Probably not now after reading that long deal. Holding a cable release with the camera mounted on the window is probably a real bad plan if the car gets hit. Time for a remote one. Just so I can get hit while adjusting the camera anyway.
 
Thanks Ryan now I'm all the sudden fearful of lightning from within my car shooting stills with the camera attached to the window. I'm in the top 1% of people scared of lightning while out of the vehicle. I can't stand running from my car to the apartment when lightning is out. Yet I'm in the bottom 1% or less of those fearing lightning in a car. I'm eager for extremely close bolts then. Probably not now after reading that long deal. Holding a cable release with the camera mounted on the window is probably a real bad plan if the car gets hit. Time for a remote one. Just so I can get hit while adjusting the camera anyway.

Heh, I'm the same way. My wife finds it humorous that I try to get near tornadoes in my car but still bolt across the parking lot to get in the house in a thunderstorm. :)

In the end, I just skipped antennas altogether. Don't really need the scanner for normal chasing, and most of the time with Vortex I was close enough for the portable whip to work (at least until I ran my scanner over).

For lightning, I set up a tripod and either let my piece of junk lightning trigger (that is set off by everything but lightning) do the work or I fire it remotely with one of these.
 
Wow Ryan thanks for posting that response as I had saved it eons ago and lost it to the dust bin of history. That thread (and my overabundance of caution around lightning while chasing) is the reason I drilled through the roof to mount my antennas. I also plan to electrically bond the doors to the frame of the car with large grounding straps...someday.
 
I had an idea the other night just as I was about to go to bed. I was thinking I could have everything run to a wireless USB hub and keep everything attached to an external antenna on the other side of the car (perhaps powered seperate from vehicle). Just not sure if a wireless USB hub would be able to handle all the devices. It is also one more thing needing power. Also, what's a few feet when the bolt alredy traversed several miles.BTW don't care if the electronics get fried if the car takes a strike, only care about the people.
 
I've got everything plugged into a surge protector, that is plugged into the invertor. I have heard story after story that they don't work, but those were cheapies. It's got input/outputs for cable also which I thought was useless for antennas but my friend claims he can make it work. We will see. Hope I never have to see if it all works. I've always wondered how someone would fare in a metal storm shelter so I asked a rep. He claims if the door is closed and it's air tight, then your fine. Then it dawned on me later that there's a vent, so I don't think i'd want to test that personally either.
 
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After getting "bit" so badly it numbed my hand I rigged up a simple device to shunt the charge to ground. I used a ground strap with an copper alligator clamp to attach to the outside (ground) of the antenna connection. This stuff can be bought at Radio Shack. The ground strap can bolt to any metal in the vehicle that hooks to the frame, like the seat frames. That will keep you from getting shocked by the input cable. It will also help with scanner damage as current that can jump a half inch will ruin electronics. This approach can work for other devices that don't lend themselves to a hardwire ground such as mag-mounts. It will not help with a direct lighting strike, it's only to protect equipment and the people in the vehicle from charge buildup on the antennas.
 
THere was one case back in the mid 90's when I was driving under a highly electricly active anvil. I had a mag-mount antenna on the roof, the other end was not connected to anything in the car. Every few seconds, a spark shot off of the end connector into the air. It was enough to hear and see. The spark was probably 1/2 to 3/4 inches long.
I just wonder what kind of damage that does to a radio.
 
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