Infrared Storm Chasing?

[Melanie Kern-Favilla]

I recently purchased a used Canon Rebel XT on Ebay and had it converted to infrared at http://www.lifepixel.com. I love shooting landscapes and such with my IR camera, but I'm wondering...Has anyone ever shot a storm in infrared? I'm curious as to what the outcome might be. If you have any experience with this format, please share!

If anyone's interested in checking out my infrared pix, just go to my website and click on 'infrared.' They're not great, but I've only had the camera for two weeks. There's much to learn.

Thanks...

Melanie

 

[Robin Tanamachi]

A couple of years ago, some colleagues and I published a paper about imaging thunderstorm cloud bases using a FLIR Thermacam. We were working in the 8-12 μm range (mid-IR); I don't know how that compares to the IR wavelengths your camera uses.

What we found was that, while the thunderstorm updrafts contrasted nicely with the cold upper atmosphere, imaging the cloud base was practically impossible at ranges exceeding about 3 km because of blowing dust, rain, and haze (primarily in the warm sector), which also emit in the mid-IR.

This may not be exactly what you're talking about, but I thought I'd throw this information out here in case it is useful to you!

 

[James Langford]

I recently purchased a used Canon Rebel XT on Ebay and had it converted to infrared at

I shoot quite a bit of infrared with both my modified Canon 10D and an old Sony F707. My experience with storms and IR is that it is very difficult to get good IR of storms. Since your camera is catching IR light that is reflected from primarily the sun, storms will end up being mostly dark and not very interested. There are instances where it can work, such as a small isolated storm that is contrasted against the blue sky. Also, I've heard that it is possible to catch lightning bolts in IR, but I haven't been able to do it yet.

 

[Andrew Herron]

For the problem of reflected light, what about using a polarized filter? I have an older cam I'd like to convert.

 

[Melanie Kern-Favilla]

I say convert away, if you've got the cash, Andrew. I dropped $350 on the Rebel XT on ebay and another $400 for the conversion. Not cheap. But I am absolutely thrilled with the results. Here's a quick sample or two of one of my IR shots...

Melanie

 

[Joey Ketcham]

Those are amazing pictures, but can you revert back to normal color easily? I wouldn't want every picture to come out like that.

 

[Melanie Kern-Favilla]

Those are amazing pictures, but can you revert back to normal color easily? I wouldn't want every picture to come out like that.

Unfortunately, no. That's why shooting IR is a financial choice that you have to make (unless you want to use a filter). I own a regular Canon Rebel XTi for my normal, visible light photos and I had to purchase a second (used) Rebel XT on ebay to have converted specifically for this use. I get tons of enjoyment out of it, but it is a one-trick pony.

Melanie

 

[Aaron Kennedy]

IR photography for cameras is actually around 700-800nm so a more accurate term would be near IR photography. Other than that, I use to have a filter for my ancient olympus camera. Maybe one of these days I'll retrofit my old D30 (3mp) canon DSLR. I saw instructions online for how to do it yourself.

 

[Rob Wadsworth]

Faking Infrared Photography?...Yes!

Those are amazing pictures, but can you revert back to normal color easily? I wouldn't want every picture to come out like that.

I just bought a copy of Paint Shop Pro Photo X2 from eBay less than a week ago. Perhaps it isn't Adobe's PhotoShop in its quality and capacity,but it does has some interesting additions - including Infrared Photo Simulation.

It may not be as good as an Infra-red camera conversion; but it does a pretty fair job in faking it. I paid $40 (incl. S&H) which is about $10 cheaper than one can normally find it for on a regular basis on eBay. If camera conversion is too expensive and you only have one camera, this may be a viable alternative for those of us who are financially afflicted.

I intend to write a review of PSPPX2 in the coming weeks. I will take the position of a newbie - so that newbie storm chasers and photographers can get caught up on pertinent knowledge. It will cover subjects like RAW conversion, lens correction, color correction - and some other programs that may be easier to use for the newbie.

 

[Melanie Kern-Favilla]

I bet we have our fair share of capable techies here, so if you're interested in doing the conversion yourself, check this out...

http://www.lifepixel.com/IR.htm

You could pick up an Hoya RM72 filter fairly inexpensively. However, they are more difficult to use on a DSLR (no AF, very long exposure times, red tint, difficulty focusing, etc). But if you're willing to put up with all of that, you could get a filter for as little as around $40.

That's another nice thing about a converted IR camera -- very quick shutter speeds (I usually shoot at 1/500); Hand-held is no problem. Autofocus works well on the default lens. And you can set a custom WB to get rid of that pinkish-red tone. But again, it ain't cheap. I tend to photograph on the creative/artistic side of life, so this camera works very well for me. But it might not be 'all that' for others.

Mel

 

[James Langford]

Good stuff in this thread! There are other options rather than using Lifepixel or one of the other sites that charge an arm and a leg. I bought a step-down ring for my two Canon lenses to use with my Hoya R72 58mm IR filter. I also took apart my Canon 10D, and removed the IR blocking mirror. Removing the IR blocking mirror allows normal exposure times, and coupled with the IR filter gives great IR results. Lifepixel, etc suggest that you replace that hot mirror with either one of their expensive cut glasses, or one of your own. I found this to be very difficult to do because the glass I cut for myself scratched easily and was hard to get into place. I decided to just leave off the glass, as it's only purpose (since I'm using an IR filter on the lens) is to correct focus issues. This hasn't been much of an issue for me, as when I shoot IR landscapes, I tend to use a higher F stop, which gives me more latitude for focussing. But, if you take this approach, you will have problems with focus on the camera.

If you have the $$$s, having someone mod your camera is a good route to take. If not, don't be afraid to take it apart yourself (there are lots of instructions online) and pop off your blocking mirror. There is actually a way to shoot normal color images with an IR modified camera. If you take the approach I did, you can buy an IR blocking filter to use if you want to take normal pics, and just replace it with the IR filter for IR shooting. Lifepixel and the other sites actual put an IR filter in place of the IR blocking filter in the camera, so you won't be able to use it for normal photography by going that route.

One thing I have noticed is that my old Canon 10D is much more sensative to IR light than my new 30D when shooting manually with a hoya R72 filter. My 30D seems to block a lot more IR light.

James

 

[James Langford]

Here are some samples of IR I have shot, as well as tech details (All were shot with a hoya R72 IR filter):

Sony F707 in Manual mode. Aperature F4, shutter speed 8 seconds, custom WB. Blue and Red channels swapped in PS.

8 vertical shots with my Son F707 in Manual mode. Aperature of F4, Shutter speed of 8 seconds, custom white balance. In PS, I swapped the red and blue channels.

Similar to above, except shot using the "Nightshot" mode of my F707. Aperature is locked to F2.8, Shutter to 1/60th, and WB to almost B&W.

Same as above.

Same as above.

Shot with my unmodified Canon 10D and 20mm lens. Camera was in Manual mode. Aperature was F4, shutter speed 8 seconds, custom WB. Swapped red and blue channels in PS.

Same as above.

Sorry for the all the pics! Lots more on my site if you are interested.

James

 

[Melanie Kern-Favilla]

I am in complete awe of your photos, James. Much better than I was able to pull of with my converted camera! Fantastic work!