Car Troubles

First off I have 92 toyota paseo. When driving to AZ I noticed that I had some vibration when accelerating around 50mph. I took it to a tire place and they balanced and rotated to tires, except it was still there. After, that I took it to mechanic and he replaced a motor mount. This greatly improved the problem but it was still there. Unfortunately, I had to go back to school, so I decided since now that I’m on spring break to send it back into the shop. The mechanic(in NM) has now replaced a CV joint. However, it still seems to shake ever so slightly, I think it has improved but either way I don’t like it. I’m now being told they’d probably start looking at the clutch but I had that replaced about 2 years ago, and the car hasn’t had any of the symptoms of what gave it away last time that it was going bad. However, it seems now if I was to send it in they’d go on a fishing expedition and I’d hate spend another $650 and still have the vibration be there.

Any ideas on what’s wrong would be appreciated…
 
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Some of the usual culprits look like they've already been covered, but I would suggest getting the alignment checked and have the steering system gone over for wear/play. Some other items to check would include the brakes and suspension.
 
Not sure if it could be the culprit, but you might want to check your suspension. (shocks/struts)
 
Please note this is only when accelerating, and it is worse when going up hills. On that note could brakes really cause this?

Under the conditions your describing (going uphill and accelerating) it's not going to be brake related....unless of course your applying brakes under those conditions for some reason, then it could be. But assuming your not, it's not.

As stated, many of the culprites have been checked. I would have the tie rod ends checked out. With an alignement check, any good technician is going to give the steering/suspension systems a thorough inspection for any warn parts, since it's impossible to get a true alignment if you have any worn suspension/steering parts. And if they tell you that you need parts, have them show you which ones and why they are bad. If they won't do that, go down the road to another shop.
 
I would inspect your spark plugs and wires. You might be getting a misfire occasionally that you are only noticing when the car is under a load (accelerating or going uphill). Always check the cheapest stuff and go from there.
 
Stick or an Automatic?

**edit: nevermind, just noticed you mentioned clutch work, that answers my question.**

You had mentioned that a motor mount had been replaced. Do you know wich one was replaced? Also, is there a specific gear or engine RPM you are in or at for that specific speed? If it is occouring all the time regardless of engine RPM or gear you could rule out for the most part any type of engine problem (electrical, ignition, ect).
 
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From what I've read online about motor mounts, all should be replaced at the same time as the others are not far from being worn out themselves.

You may want to check your tie-rods as well.
 
You say the problem occurs only when accelerating and worse when going up hills, that means it happens when to motor is working hard. Forget anything about direction and tires since it would happen all the time at same speed. A key part of the problem comes when you say changing a motor mount greatly improved the situation.

Now we know vibrations come from the motor. One common source for this is a gaz or ignition problems: changing wires and spark plugs is so cheap you should try this first. I had similar problem (vibrations occured when on on neutral (ex: on a red traffic light) or when accelerating) and changing them did the job. Anyways wires should be changed on a regular few years basis so if last job on them was long ago it should be done.

Also another mount might be the problem: they replaced one it improved, more than one might be broken?

Don't go over major machanicals job before you checked every possible sources.


One thing is sure: if one shop can't get it fixed without replacing the whole car, go to another one. Most of them will simply try randomly changing pieces: inpecting a car properly is less affordable for them. Just don't put more on your car then the car's value itself...
 
I would suspect c/v axles to be your problem. Ya might give that a try. They can wear out just like a u-joint and cause a vibration.
 
Might wanna check your drive shaft. It can cause shakes at 50mph where it wouldn't as much at 70mph, accelerating but not cruising, etc. I've had this problem before.
 
Might wanna check your drive shaft. It can cause shakes at 50mph where it wouldn't as much at 70mph, accelerating but not cruising, etc. I've had this problem before.

Yeah, that might be a little difficult in a front wheel drive car, seeing as how they don't have a drive shaft. heh
 
Indeed...I failed to notice the model of car. Doesn't anybody drive older cars anymore? Even though, the '92 Paseo still has a small shaft to "drive" it. Not as long as RWD vehicles obviously, but it passes as a drive shaft nonetheless.
 
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Yes, obviously. I would have said "American" cars, but then someone would cite front-wheel drive cars again. I guess you have to word things like a lawyer nowadays to not be misunderstood.
 
Indeed...I failed to notice the model of car. Doesn't anybody drive older cars anymore? Even though, the '92 Paseo still has a small shaft to "drive" it. Not as long as RWD vehicles obviously, but it passes as a drive shaft nonetheless.
Since I had a CV joint/assembly replaced, I believe to a mechanic this is work I have had done on the "drive axel".[FONT=&quot]
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I would inspect your spark plugs and wires. You might be getting a misfire occasionally that you are only noticing when the car is under a load (accelerating or going uphill). Always check the cheapest stuff and go from there.
I had some cylinders miss firing a year or two ago, and I have had done what you mentioned. When the car did this in the past it became more sluggish. However, I don’t notice anything like that now.

You had mentioned that a motor mount had been replaced. Do you know wich one was replaced? Also, is there a specific gear or engine RPM you are in or at for that specific speed? If it is occouring all the time regardless of engine RPM or gear you could rule out for the most part any type of engine problem (electrical, ignition, ect).
It happens regardless of RPM or gear.

Some of the usual culprits look like they've already been covered, but I would suggest getting the alignment checked and have the steering system gone over for wear/play. Some other items to check would include the brakes and suspension.
I did have the brakes checked recently too. The brakes are fine, I asked the mechanic if an alignment would help for the vibration. He said it would not.
 
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Even though, the '92 Paseo still has a small shaft to "drive" it. Not as long as RWD vehicles obviously, but it passes as a drive shaft nonetheless.

Actually no, while they do appear to serve the same function, the mechanics of how a CV Shaft operates are vastly different than an old style drive shaft. It's like comparing supercell storms to non-supercell storms. They may have similarities, but they are different animals.

Sorry, it's the old auto-tech coming out in me. :)

He's right, assuming the shop replaced the CV Shaft assembly (with both CV joints on it) that would have taken care of that being the problem (assuming he replaced both sides). Most shops won't just replace the joint any more, rather the whole assembly. It's less time consuming and less costly than just replacing a joint. I used to replace those day in and day out. It's soooo much easier to change out the whole assembly.

Have you tried moving the front tires to the back and vise versa. If you do that and the vibration changes or "moves" in the car, you definitely have a tire and/or wheel issue.
 
He's right, assuming the shop replaced the CV Shaft assembly (with both CV joints on it) that would have taken care of that being the problem (assuming he replaced both sides). Most shops won't just replace the joint any more, rather the whole assembly. It's less time consuming and less costly than just replacing a joint. I used to replace those day in and day out. It's soooo much easier to change out the whole assembly.

That's correct. On the reciept it says they replaced right cv shaft assembly.
 
Have them check the left one as well. Typically these are a longer shaft and more prone to vibration issues (usually because the inner joint is failing). It usually is most noticable during periods of heavier load (like going uphill) or higher speeds.
 
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