Taking Pictures of Lightning with Digital Camera

[D. Hayes]

That's where a couple big memory sticks and packs of batteries hidden away are nice.

You can also look into getting a Neutral Density filter if your camera can use filters. There are aftermarket filter adapters for P&S cameras. I'll have to track mine down to recall what model mine is. The ND filter is basically dark sunglasses for your camera that allows you to simulate night for longer exposures during the day. Takes a bit to get use to but they do work.

 

[Chris Hayes]

Karla, can you adjust the aperature and set your camera to keep the shutter open for a few seconds at a time? If you can do that, thats all you really need along with a tripod. Being able to change the ISO is handy. I use 100 ISO almost exclusively, especially for nighttime lightning photography.

 

[Mike Deep]

The biggest thing crippling point and shoot cameras with lightning is the maximum shutter speed. Most models seem to stop at 2-4" and you need more than that unless its a really active storm. Reflexive shooting isn't an option either due to setup delay and shutter lag.

If you're on a budget and really want to shoot lightning, you could get a film SLR and cable release. You won't be able to review your results until you develop the film, though, and you could have a lot of dud shots.

This is the last lightning shot I got on an Olympus OM-1 with a 50mm lens, after which I invested in the Canon EOS system:

Then again, used DSLR prices aren't too bad. There's a 20D on KEH.com right now for $349. Add in a 18-55 IS ($149) and you're set.

 

[Daniel Beuchert]

Artifacts with lightening shots???

I'm a n00b to lightening photography, and so I still use a lot of video, mainly because my camera doesn't allow for longer exposures, though my wife's does. I've had a little luck with hers, and I really like putting it on a continuous shot cycle for the 5 or so seconds it allows. It only take 3 shots in rapid fire ... so you have to click a lot! It's a lot of crapola, but you eventually, usually, get a hit.

I do have a question, though ... if Karla or anyone else here has had artifacts show up in pictures or video of lightening - using a digital camera?

Here's an example of what I've seen. The one to the left (or first) is the artifact, the one to the right or bottom), is right after.

Sometimes the artifact is right there on the lightening strike, kind of messing the shot up. Any ideas on what could prevent that? I presume it has to do with the massive electric discharge messing with the electronic components of the camera ... though sometimes I'm not really that close to the shot.

 

[Shaun Galman]

Hi guys,
After reading through and finally getting to join these amazing forums, I guess this would be the best thread to introduce myself on and offer a little advice if I can as this is a subject close to my heart. I've been doing lightning photography professionally in Australia for close to six years now and have really done the hard yards as far as learning everything the hard way when I started out. I too started out in 1994 by taking 150 pitch-black shots of a nice active storm lol! Only by learning from my mistakes and a little trial and error did I get to where I am today with my lightning photography.

All the advice offered is pretty-well spot on and I can only really add a few idea's for those who use digital SLR's and digital hybrid's that had a few manual controls like an old Nikon Coolpix8700 eg. (which I started out with myself) like keeping the ISO at the lowest possible settings for most evening/nighttime lightning work. The advice following is predominantly for nighttime lightning photography. I will see if there's anything I can add as far as daylight lightning work is concerned. Daylight lightning is hands down the hardest form of photography to master!

I use a Canon 450D DR XSi currently and have found the clipping (red edges on the lightning bolts) is fairly stable and almost non-existent if I keep the aperture at f/8, or above to somewhere near f/16-22 when the lightning is very close and I mean 'hitting across the road' close! You may want to avoid that sort of 'close!'

The exposure times (as has been said already) is usually best between 4-8 seconds, but I do like going up to 20 seconds if the storm is; distant, has stars adjacent or the lightning is not co-operating and taking it's sweet time to discharge. I've been up around 25 seconds in some storms but if there's a sneaky bit of lower scud cloud in the shot it will soon create a nice blurry mess? I like cloud detail so I avoid this number unless the storm/s are distant.

Another tip I can offer, particularly when purchasing a new lens is to make sure it has a focal range gauge on it! This is extremely handy when out in the pitch darkness and having no distant lights to manually set the infinity focus. I have the gauge on my 10-20mm Sigma so I set it and forget it. Whereas 18-55mm kit lens, on the other hand has no gauge and can be a nightmare to set particularly when the storm is approaching fast! The auto focus on the 450D in total darkness is relatively useless. I'll be rectifying this kit lens issue in the coming weeks with a new Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 L lens.

Tripods are a must (as has been said also) and I can recommend a good heavy one lol, after I had mine blown over with my, then new, Canon on it in a severe outflow gust! It wasn't even extended, it was only sitting around 18 inches high. The camera was in no way harmed as I did manage to catch it but was blown over myself also, no harm done luckily. My current tripod, after disposing of that light one, is an Optex PT765 Pro Series and weighs in at a hefty 12.5 pounds! Maybe not very suitable for a point and click digital lol?

Having a good quality lens cloth handy to wipe off any moisture or raindrops is a must also. I will keep another cloth or plastic-type bag handy to cover the camera in the advent of a heavy downpour or an extreme dust event as well.

My good friend used a small point and click Olympus years ago in storms with no adjustment other than a 4 second exposure on the "Fireworks/nighttime portrait" setting. He hasn't been able to top those shots in 5 years! They are still some of our best selling prints!

It does really come down to knowing you're camera settings back-the-front. I figure if I have to correct anything in Photoshop later my camera skills aren't up to scratch. Don't forget to compose your shot first if you have a little time and remember to keep the horizon straight!

Most importantly: Always remember SAFETY FIRST! And if you don't feel safe then you probably aren't!

Kindest regards and take care,
Shauno.
P.S. There's some real nice shots here guys!

 

[D. Hayes]

Welcome to the Forums Shaun. Thanks for the input on the thread. I took some long photos the other day since the lightening was way out there and I have to say the exposure was a tad too long. Ends up the storm was illuminating the formation of a tornado but the photos ended up getting somewhat blurred due to the long exposure.

Now where in the world is Karla! I want to see what's she's done so far.

 

[James Wilson]

Here are a few of mine where i like the clouds getting blurred a bit. I think it adds to it sometimes.

 

[Joe beier]

Well everyone else is posting theirs so why not post a couple of the too many I have ...

I forget exactly cause I'm on my phone but I think they're a 25 second exposure.

 

[Shaun Galman]

Welcome to the Forums Shaun. Thanks for the input on the thread. I took some long photos the other day since the lightening was way out there and I have to say the exposure was a tad too long. Ends up the storm was illuminating the formation of a tornado but the photos ended up getting somewhat blurred due to the long exposure.

Now where in the world is Karla! I want to see what's she's done so far.

Thanks for the kind welcome! Sometimes those distant storms can really be frustrating but be persistent and don't be afraid to mess around with your settings. If you take a few hundred 'okay' shots and manage to grab one or two amazing ones then I would say it was a successful outing! I know you guys in the US get far better storm structure more commonly than we do here so even catching some great illuminated structure can really be reward enough!

I have a few photos where I went up and over a 25 second exposure to achieve a nice storm/star balance and I agree that sometimes cloud blur can add a nice effect! Be careful to not let too many CG that are close together build up as they can soon blow out an area of the image. It's all in the eye of the beholder. I've been selling my photos for 5 years and have had great responses to some that I thought were pretty ordinary?

I will add a few other daylight shooting tips soon.
Kindest regards and keep those images coming!
Shauno

 

[Clarence Bennett]

Can someone explain how you prevent this from happening? What can I do to prevent it "blowing out"?

 

[Lanny Dean]

I checked the specs for your camera and it appears the longest exposure is like 4 seconds. The max aperature is like 5.5. This would work on some shots with a very active storm. Be prepared to take many many pics and with a little luck and persistence, you should catch something.

Steve, is the aperature you gave min. or max? I thought this camera would go above 5.5?

Karla,
Either way, it is important to remember that the smaller the aperature, the larger the lens opening and the larger the apareture the smaller the lens opening. This is good to remember because this also helps with your DOF.
(Depth Of Field)
Without getting to technical, when I am shooting lightning after dark or in very low light conditions I usually have my f-stop set somewhere near f/8 to f/16. This helps control my depth of field by allowing me to focus to near infinity. Of course the price you pay for this is lower light to the sensor or film plain. You could use a lower f-stop such as f/3.5 or f/2.8 and this would certainly allow more light to the sensor but it will also increase your DOF ie. not everything in the background will be in focus like your foreground.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Clarence, I can't see the image you posted but usually a blown-out image means an aperture too wide open. Apertures for lightning at 100ISO vary greatly depending on distance. F5.6 or lower for 2 miles or more away (including most anvil crawlers), F6.3 to F8 for 1-2 miles, F8 to F11 for closer than a mile and F13 to F16 for very close lightning. Sometimes storms can produce more intense discharges than others, these will need a few stops higher. For example the highly-luminous positive CG (the branchless, bright, sonic-booming ones) will need at least 2 stops higher to prevent overexposure at any given distance.

 

[Clarence Bennett]

Here it is...sorry. Take a look and let me know what you think, other than the fact it was very close by.

 

[Greg Campbell]

1) As Dan mentioned, proper exposure is largely determined by the combination of F-stop, sensor/film ISO, distance to the lightning, and the lightning's inherent brightness. Your image looks several stops overexposed. Since you can only guesstimate how far away the next bolt will be, you'll always wind up with an occasional 'wrong' setting. Don't sweat it!

2) It's a digital camera. Digital lightning tends to block more abruptly than good old film.

3) The sky seems awfully bright. When shooting, use Chimp Mode every so often to check your image's overall exposure level, and adjust the shutter time to taste.

Keep shooting!

 

[Tyler Burg]

Yeah sometimes it just sucks when you are so close to a great shot and it overexposes, I wasn't ready for this close one... it was f/8 for 10s. Needed to be f/11 probably