Hi guys,
After reading through and finally getting to join these amazing forums, I guess this would be the best thread to introduce myself on and offer a little advice if I can as this is a subject close to my heart. I've been doing lightning photography professionally in Australia for close to six years now and have really done the hard yards as far as learning everything the hard way when I started out. I too started out in 1994 by taking 150 pitch-black shots of a nice active storm lol! Only by learning from my mistakes and a little trial and error did I get to where I am today with my lightning photography.
All the advice offered is pretty-well spot on and I can only really add a few idea's for those who use digital SLR's and digital hybrid's that had a few manual controls like an old Nikon Coolpix8700 eg. (which I started out with myself) like keeping the ISO at the lowest possible settings for most evening/nighttime lightning work. The advice following is predominantly for nighttime lightning photography. I will see if there's anything I can add as far as daylight lightning work is concerned. Daylight lightning is hands down the hardest form of photography to master!
I use a Canon 450D DR XSi currently and have found the clipping (red edges on the lightning bolts) is fairly stable and almost non-existent if I keep the aperture at f/8, or above to somewhere near f/16-22 when the lightning is very close and I mean 'hitting across the road' close! You may want to avoid that sort of 'close!'
The exposure times (as has been said already) is usually best between 4-8 seconds, but I do like going up to 20 seconds if the storm is; distant, has stars adjacent or the lightning is not co-operating and taking it's sweet time to discharge. I've been up around 25 seconds in some storms but if there's a sneaky bit of lower scud cloud in the shot it will soon create a nice blurry mess? I like cloud detail so I avoid this number unless the storm/s are distant.
Another tip I can offer, particularly when purchasing a new lens is to make sure it has a focal range gauge on it! This is extremely handy when out in the pitch darkness and having no distant lights to manually set the infinity focus. I have the gauge on my 10-20mm Sigma so I set it and forget it. Whereas 18-55mm kit lens, on the other hand has no gauge and can be a nightmare to set particularly when the storm is approaching fast! The auto focus on the 450D in total darkness is relatively useless. I'll be rectifying this kit lens issue in the coming weeks with a new Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 L lens.
Tripods are a must (as has been said also) and I can recommend a good heavy one lol, after I had mine blown over with my, then new, Canon on it in a severe outflow gust! It wasn't even extended, it was only sitting around 18 inches high. The camera was in no way harmed as I did manage to catch it but was blown over myself also, no harm done luckily. My current tripod, after disposing of that light one, is an Optex PT765 Pro Series and weighs in at a hefty 12.5 pounds! Maybe not very suitable for a point and click digital lol?
Having a good quality lens cloth handy to wipe off any moisture or raindrops is a must also. I will keep another cloth or plastic-type bag handy to cover the camera in the advent of a heavy downpour or an extreme dust event as well.
My good friend used a small point and click Olympus years ago in storms with no adjustment other than a 4 second exposure on the "Fireworks/nighttime portrait" setting. He hasn't been able to top those shots in 5 years! They are still some of our best selling prints!
It does really come down to knowing you're camera settings back-the-front. I figure if I have to correct anything in Photoshop later my camera skills aren't up to scratch. Don't forget to compose your shot first if you have a little time and remember to keep the horizon straight!
Most importantly: Always remember SAFETY FIRST! And if you don't feel safe then you probably aren't!
Kindest regards and take care,
Shauno.
P.S. There's some real nice shots here guys!
