Sensor or Lens Dirt?

[Jim Saueressig]

Yet, I think I would still use in on the outside of the body of the camera and before changing lens.

That should be fine, If your camera can't handle that you are in trouble anyway.

I think the worst permanent risk inside the camera is moisture on the delicate electronics which are generally protected from moisture outside the body. Oil and such will ruin your day but could be cleaned up.

 

[Greg Campbell]

For direct cleaning of the sensor filter, synthetic swabs like these, used with a drop or two of lab grade methanol, will work very well with zero risk (assuming you're not a complete spazz!) of damaging the camera. A bag of 100 swabs will last years and save money vs. the absurdly priced 'sensor swabs' found at the camera store.

Pure Isopropyl also works well, but is somewhat more difficult to use w/o leaving light streaks. Avoid acetone and most other solvents, they may eat the plastics in your camera!

Guess I should have offered a caveat regarding the canned air. Holding the can at an angle, or shaking it as you dispense, may spray fluid propellant onto your camera. This fluid will leave a residue (it cleans up w/o worry), and may also cause thermal shock, as it evaporates. As others suggest, test and practice on something bombproof before attempting to clean the sensor window. Jim probably has a point about contaminants. I've used several brands at work, and haven't yet encountered oil or other nasty surprises, but anything is possible.

 

[Christine Hudnall]

Thread is a couple of days old, but this might be of use to others....

I've used the wet method, I've used the canned air (before I knew better - old camera) and have tried other ways.

Then I learned how to clean my sensor with the Lens Pen, a rocket blower and a microfiber cloth. I've not looked back since then. I am no longer afraid to clean the sensor. That, is a big plus!

 

[Aaron Gerhardt]

I am on the boat with using the Rocket Air blower for anything loose, if you start blowing profusely to get stuff off, most likely going to make it worse. I've used the Rocket Air with pretty decent success.

I bought the sensor swabs and haven't been around to clean it with those yet, since I got my D40 at BestBuy and have free cleaning for times I don't need it.

I guess whilst we're on the cleaning topic, or lenses cleanable on the inside? I haven't encountered anything on the likes, or are they pretty much air-tight internally?

 

[Jim Saueressig]

I am on the boat with using the Rocket Air blower for anything loose, if you start blowing profusely to get stuff off, most likely going to make it worse. I've used the Rocket Air with pretty decent success.

I bought the sensor swabs and haven't been around to clean it with those yet, since I got my D40 at BestBuy and have free cleaning for times I don't need it.

I guess whilst we're on the cleaning topic, or lenses cleanable on the inside? I haven't encountered anything on the likes, or are they pretty much air-tight internally?

Some are some aren't. I know telephotos can vacuum dust into them when extending them at times but cleaning them would be another story.

 

[Greg Campbell]

Much modern consumer glass isn't really designed to be repaired or serviced. You may be able to get the front element group out w/o too much cursing. Beyond that, you'll find sub assemblies that snap together, yet offer no way to disassemble them short of breaking the snap tab mechanism. Other bits are permanently glued, etc.

Supposedly, high end lenses may be an exception. Some are built 'old' style, with a larger balance of screws, clips, etc. that allow disassembly, cleaning, and repair. (I've cleaned haze and light fungus from several of my ancient FD lenses w/o too much difficulty.)

Keep in mind that small flecks of dust and dirt seldom have any effect on your images. Haze, oil, fungus, etc. are far more serious, causing loss of contrast and resolution.