• After witnessing the continued decrease of involvement in the SpotterNetwork staff in serving SN members with troubleshooting issues recently, I have unilaterally decided to terminate the relationship between SpotterNetwork's support and Stormtrack. I have witnessed multiple users unable to receive support weeks after initiating help threads on the forum. I find this lack of response from SpotterNetwork officials disappointing and a failure to hold up their end of the agreement that was made years ago, before I took over management of this site. In my opinion, having Stormtrack users sit and wait for so long to receive help on SpotterNetwork issues on the Stormtrack forums reflects poorly not only on SpotterNetwork, but on Stormtrack and (by association) me as well. Since the issue has not been satisfactorily addressed, I no longer wish for the Stormtrack forum to be associated with SpotterNetwork.

    I apologize to those who continue to have issues with the service and continue to see their issues left unaddressed. Please understand that the connection between ST and SN was put in place long before I had any say over it. But now that I am the "captain of this ship," it is within my right (nay, duty) to make adjustments as I see necessary. Ending this relationship is such an adjustment.

    For those who continue to need help, I recommend navigating a web browswer to SpotterNetwork's About page, and seeking the individuals listed on that page for all further inquiries about SpotterNetwork.

    From this moment forward, the SpotterNetwork sub-forum has been hidden/deleted and there will be no assurance that any SpotterNetwork issues brought up in any of Stormtrack's other sub-forums will be addressed. Do not rely on Stormtrack for help with SpotterNetwork issues.

    Sincerely, Jeff D.

Photo Question: White Balance

Darren, do you use the coffee filter/ExpoDisc method? Any advice on where you should point the camera when setting the WB? (Since usually you have to point it at the light source rather than the subject. And knowing that finding an exact light source during storms in various stages may be tricky. Another possible problem is that the light source from your camera's position is not necessary the same as the light deep in the storm you're trying to shoot.)

My 2 cents on post-processing photos: it's great that we have that ability, but the fewer steps I have to go through in post to get what I want, the better. If I can get things close to "correct" at the time of the shoot, I'm all for it.

The coffee filter/ExpoDisc method probably doesn't really apply in lightning or dark storm photography, which was the original question, so perhaps I shouldn't have added it to this thread.

It is easy to see what your cameras white balance settings are going to do if your camera has a separate WB button on it, like my Pentax K-x does: You take a shot, hit PLAY to see it on your screen, and then hit your WB button and select the various WB options. You'll see the color of the image on the screen change with each setting. Go with the one that looks most natural to you for the lighting condition you are under.

Obviously, the suggestions of doing WB in post from the RAW file will be the ultimate in control. Also obviously, if you forget to check your WB and change it when you change settings, then AWB will be the best compromise for you - otherwise you will be doing a lot of post-processing on the images you forgot to change the WB setting for specifically.

Regarding the use of the filter, keep in mind it is used in setting a Custom White Balance. Yes, it is supposed to be aimed at the light source. If you aim it at the subject it may be affected by the reflected colors of the scene and not the light itself, which is where the overall color temp comes from. I personally have the biggest problems with white balance shooting inside with lots of fluorescent lights, which are often of different color temps.

Also, keep in mind that sometimes the color shift is what MAKES the photo. For example, the "golden hour" is called that because of the way the color of the light changes as the sun rises or sets. If you ExpoDisc it, you are in effect canceling out the very color that makes the scene extraordinary.

In mixed light settings you need to choose which you are exposing for. Imagine a shot of a girl in a darkened room, sitting close to the television and lit by it's light. The rest of the room, perhaps a dog sleeping on the floor behind her, is lit by a tungsten end table lamp. Which color temp do you want to be "normal". If you normalize on the tungsten the light from the television will be blue cast. If you normalize on the television light, the dog will probably be orange. Using your camera's AWB, will probably select a middle ground. I use this as an example for you to think through what the camera (and/or filter) is doing to make its corrections.
 
Cloudy is the way to go outside. Inside, you can play around - I've rarely had trouble with AWB. Cloudy saturates the colors a bit more. Also, try setting your exposure compensation to -0.3, which will generally give you a well saturated exposure without losing anything.

RAW is great, so get what you can out of it in post processing, but it's nice to get what you want from your camera when you're shooting.
 
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