High Dynamic Range Imaging

Thanks ... Union Station is wonderful. It seems to have more and more monetary setbacks and I wish it didn't, because I love that place. There's another new photographic hotspot that just opened back up here Ryan ... and I'm anxious to go check it out. The old President Hotel downtown reopened after a full restoration/renovation. It looks like quite a place. My next serious HDR project, though, is going to be to try this on a city skyline at dusk or dark. I think the result will be quite interesting. I'm also curious about trying it with a panorama.

There is a bit of a learning curve between reading about how it's done and actually doing it. But once it clicks, the process works well. It's very interesting anyway. You really do start running into a lot of temporal issues in a public venue. It's near impossible to avoid ghosts in the scene as long as people are strolling through the shot. If you look closely you'll also see the ones who stood still for the couple of seconds it took to expose the images. In a way, composites are a hybrid between still photography and video, retaining elements of each.

The images this process produces look rich ... the tonality that is perceived by the human eye is much closer to being duplicated with these. But the images are so rich that they appear contrived. As I said earlier in this thread, we aren't really accustomed to this type of photograph yet for the most part. The closest thing our mind associates it with is probably CGI, which is a completely contrived environment given parameters that mimic reality. In the case of HDR, we are looking at a new way of capturing a real environment ... we're just not used to seeing an image from a camera with a nearly full range of stops. Now if we could only get it to the several thousand range of stops our eyes actually perceive and we'll really have something wild. There's no doubt that someday it will be a real possibility. Our brains and eyes are incredibly precise instruments.

I've been thinking about your first image above, Ryan ... as to why the clouds on the sides appear as they do. The exposure level is there, but the clouds themselves look 'squashed'. This takes nothing away from the impact of the photo, IMO - but just an interesting by-product. I'm thinking this is actually something to do with the fact that the camera is 'pushing' these two walls into a two-dimensional frame. The actual walls and the clouds on the other side of them are three dimensional, of course. This effect is lost in the shot below, where you are exposing the clouds through the window at a 90 degree angle ... in effect, placing them closer to a 2D environment before the shots are taken. In the cathedral photo, this is impossible to achieve because the camera is seeing two walls at 45 degree angles or something against clouds at more complicated angles than that. Our brains are able to compensate for the scene if we were actually sitting there in the cathedral looking at it. But cameras cannot. This could be a limiting factor in several shots that we might have to take into consideration during composition. Still amazing, though.

One thing I really learned between the trip to SD and yesterday is to use a remote trigger. The composites yesterday were a big improvement ... almost zero shake this time and can be enlarged like crazy.
 
ok - so we know that HDR is designed for scenes containing a wide range of stops. But I was curious about what it would do in a scene containing a lower dynamic range, but with different degrees of light from various sources. I was interested in doing a skyline shot at dusk to pick up the ambient light in the background, but also a combination of street lights, building lights, etc.

Here is a single JPG taken from a RAW image. The only adjustment I made was to apply unsharp mask. It was a 2 sec. exposure at F4 using the 17-40mmL lens at ISO 100:

SkylineTest.jpg


It's not bad and you can make out a lot of detail ... but then I did a range of 8 exposures from F4 to F20 at ISO 100 and ran an HDR composite. Again, the only adjustment I made in the final JPG was to sharpen:

webSkylineHDR.jpg


It's interesting to me that the 2 sec exposure at F4 blows out sky detail, where this is retained in the composite. What I love about how the HDR composite turned out is actually how true the color remained. I just love the color. Normally for skylines I will bracket a range of exposures and just change the shutter speed to pick up detail - then compare all the exposures to decide which one turned out best. I still feel like HDR made a great image in this case, even with the lower dynamic range. Anyway - maybe not a well conceived test, but I was entertained.
 
As Bill or Ted might say: "Whoaaaa..... Excellent!" ;) That bottom shot's a keeper! A very, very dramatic example of what HDR can do. How well did the camera retain detail when shifting the aperature instead of the shutter speed? Darren & I were just chewing on this question the other day. I posited that changing the DOF that much and changing the lens sharpness that much and then blending the photos together would result in a weird HDR image. But I'd never tried it. It looks from your photo like this might work quite well! This is a big deal for storm photographers, because the sky moves quickly. If you're going to do an HDR of the sky, and the light is such that the exposure is 2 seconds at f/8, then with traditional shutter-speed-change HDR shots, you'd be shooting at least three exposures, one at 1/2 second and one at 8 seconds. Altogether, that's enough seconds for the storm to have moved some, which ruins the HDR composite. However, three images at two seconds might be quick enough to keep the sky from moving too much.

Really cool shot! You seem to be going to town (pun intended) with this stuff! ;)
 
Did a little playing around with HDR today and I think it turned out well. Also I have Photoshop CS and I don't think it has an HDR feature like newer versions, anyone know if there is a plugin or update for this? I used Photomatrix, but I don't want to buy it just yet. Sorry about small size of the image.

Sunset on distant anvil:
HDRsunset.jpg
 
Since I don't have PS2 and can't play with that HDR thing I am having fun just seeing what I can do with one image file. Here is the top image of Mike's KC shot processed without HDR or anymore than 1 file. Just kind of an example of how far you can go with one image.

kcsinglefile.jpg



The HDR image posted of this obviously wins with the highlight and shadow information available to it(the one under Mike's post.....the first one in mine is one exposure of his and then followed by it being processed...so that is clear). I think HDR will still require other post-processing means to get the image looking right. In this case it just seems too hazy and lacking contrast. The white halo stuff between the buildings stands out a bit too. I think that overcast look to them and the lacking contrast that happens for whatever reason is what gives them all a little bit of a cartoony look yet. I think Mike's example here is damn close to whatever perfection would be for this. If one could get some contrast into it while keeping the highlights in check and the shadows(easy enough) and get rid of that halo'ing effect it'd be set.

For those that aren't that nit picky to even notice, check out the street lights in Mike's HDR one in his post. That is where HDR wins, they aren't at all blown out. The shadow stuff would have less noise as well.
 
I tried this using Photomatrix and one raw file. The only other processing that was done after the hdr combination was to add some contrast and saturation as well as a slight touch up in noise ninja for the noise in the clouds.

Original Raw with USM:
 
I tried this using Photomatrix and one raw file. The only other processing that was done after the hdr combination was to crop, add some contrast and saturation as well as a slight touch up in noise ninja for the noise in the clouds.

Original Raw with USM:

[attachmentid=368]

HDR:

[attachmentid=369]

Granted, this was just an experiment to see how the process works. I am not "thrilled" with the results by any means. I do see the potential, though, if someone was able to master the process and learn how to overcome the quirks and kinks in the system.

It would be very interesting to me to see what someone with a superior knowledge to mine (which is little) in post processing could do with the original raw file to see if the same or better result was possible using more normal techniques (ie.. levels, curves and the like). Just a thought.
 
That's a very nice shot, Ben. Did you base it on multiple exposures or a single RAW file? I believe that the "Merge to HDR" command was first available with Photoshop CS 2. Here's a tutorial: http://www.layersmagazine.com/design/merge_HDR.phpPhotoshop CS "Merge to HDR" tutorial.

Nice to see that Photomatix-produced images aren't all "over the top".

Darren Addy
Kearney, NE
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This was a combination of 10 RAW exposures. The range of stops between highlights and shadows wasn't that great and that seems to be the reason that this image looks more natural then some. I could see HDR being very useful in similar situations were you could possibly get a nice image with 1 exposure, but you don't want to lose any shadow/highlight detail.
 
This was a combination of 10 RAW exposures. The range of stops between highlights and shadows wasn't that great and that seems to be the reason that this image looks more natural then some. I could see HDR being very useful in similar situations were you could possibly get a nice image with 1 exposure, but you don't want to lose any shadow/highlight detail.
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Surely people don't think that horizon looks natural though? That is the hardest part about post-processing landscape images(or storm images), is being able to get that transition to look right. Lots on here have that very abrupt gradient that will quickly ruin any nice scene. To me it doesn't look very natural. The second hardest part about post processing is having that foreground look naturally bright once you can seperate the two nicely. It seems just a smidge too bright. That and that horizon makes it look a bit off to me.

For what it is worth I don't have a single shot on my site that is more than one exposure and nothing is HDR. If anyone wants to open up a foreground some AND have the horizon look natural(no haloing or glow above and no area of black right below) it's not too terribly hard.

For those that want it to look natural and don't yet know how to get there try this. I only have photoshop so I can only explain what I do in that. I go to layer/new adjustment layer/levels. Then click ok and adjust the levels sliders to make the foreground look right/brighter. Ignore what it is doing to the background. Bring the right/highlight one to the left, don't mess with the left/shadows one on the foreground. When done click ok. Now you have a layer on there with the adjustments on that layer. You can now erase areas of that layer, or mask them out by painting black on that layer mask(you can see the layer mask is there in the layers palette right next to your levels adjustment layer. But anyway, click on Select/Color Range. Now with the dropper click somewhere on the foreground near the horizon. Then go to the box/window and move that slider around, 72 often works well for me. Then click ok. That will select areas of the foreground, but you want to erase the areas of the background that you didn't want to change. So all you have to do is go to Select/Inverse(you could have just clicked the dropper on the sky but I've found this way works better to do the foreground and then inverse it). Now go over to the tool thing and click on the eraser tool. Make sure the bottom box of the two on that same tool palette is black(there are two squares on top of one another, bottom should be black). Make sure your eraser is set to 100% at the top. Then simply erase/paint black onto that mask in the selected areas of the sky. That has been the thing that has worked best for me, and believe me I've struggled with getting the hang of this. Now if you want you can double click the levels adjustment layer icon in the layer palette. This will open up that levels box you used to set it. You can now move that around and see that it's only changing the area you want, the area not in black on the mask. It might take some practice on that selection part and using different numbers than 72. It sometimes takes erasing one area then doing it again for another part of the image/horizon. It's pretty amazing what you can do to an image just using levels when you can isolate the background and foreground from each other like that.

Maybe this doesn't belong in this topic and we could use a PS'ing topic, I don't know. Just thought I'd mention it since it is such a HUGE help in post-processing.
 
Mike - thanks for posting that result. I'd agree with that ... I like the contrast and clarity of your image, and the highlights/shadows detail and color of mine. A person could take the HDR photo and then apply some of the techniques you showed to possibly get the best of both methods.

I ended up going to Colorado this week (for the lack of storms in the plains) and getting some mountain shots as the monsoonal moisture came in ... made for some nice, dramatic skies. I did several HDR tests in the mountains and will be working on these for quite a while.

Some things I'm noticing, though - When it comes to scenes with lots of light, such as those in the mountains, a person really needs to try several alternate methods to figure out just which works the best for the particular scene they are working on. HDR is NOT for every shot! The tonal mapping feature of Photomatix tends to cause cartoonish features in scenes with high amounts of sunlight. For these, I'm getting better results by either just sticking with a RAW file alone, or merging to HDR in Photomatix or CS2, and then using curves in CS2 to finish.

Here's an example of a straight RAW image that has been adjusted in PS:

webhorses2.jpg


Here's the same image, this time run as an HDR composite with three bracketed shots and toned using the Photomatix tonal mapping system:

ColoradoHorsesWeb.jpg


And finally, this time I used Photomatix to merge into HDR, then used PS to mix down to 16 bit, where curves adjustments were made, and then 8 bit:

webHorsesPhotoPS.jpg


These are the first round of edits. Things I notice between the first method and the last is that the last (using HDR) gives more detail in the sky, and I need to work with the contrast in the RAW file, I see. I also don't like the way the softness in the trees in the last method at all (probably because the images didn't align correctly). The middle image is too cartoonish and not acceptable to me, though I really like the cloud detail. Would help if some fresh eyes told me what they think. For me, for now I plan to stick with the RAW file and simply make some more adjustments similar to what Mike H mentions above. I'll mess with a couple of other HDR possibilities, but the HDR version just doesn't do it in this case.

I also ran multiple HDR shots (and RAW combinations) that can be merged into panoramas. For the panoramas, I stuck with just two side-by-side scenes in both landscape and portrait. But I'll have to decide just how much to utilize HDR with them, or to rather stick with RAW edits. I'm going to be working on the Colorado stuff for quite a while before I decide just which way brings out the best in the photos.

By the way, in the scene above, I saw these horses under this mountain yesterday and had to take the shot. I pulled off the road, took all the photos and got back in the car. We got back on the road, up to speed, and then we were ran off the road by someone speeding to pass in our lane (oncoming car), who was being chased at high speed by a patrol car in the middle of nowhere. The guy could have easily killed us, and missed my car by just a few inches. It was a scary moment to say the least. Hope they caught the guy.
 


My first attemp of a HDR Image, with photomatrix. A canon 350d with the kit lens. Probably the grass is abit bright, and whole image a tad bit blury. But cant wait to a get a decent lens to give this a real go.
 
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