A luddite I am, as I still shoot film. Okay, I take that back -- I used to know a gal who'd shoot weddings exclusively using an ol' crank-it Mamiya medium format -- I suspect Darren knows her too :wink: -- whereas I'm using a Canon EOS-3.
The EOS-3 is really a top notch camera. If you're going to shoot film, I'd highly reccomend this camera, or its slightly better cousin, the EOS-1V. Both can do just about anything you've ever wanted to do with photography, though the EOS-3 doesn't work with infrared. With the optional power-pack, the EOS-3 can shoot seven frames a second until your film runs out, which is usually in a little over five seconds. It also supports ETTL flash metering, which is a must. It has two drips, vertical and horizontal so the same finger is always on the shutter button. It has a predictive focusing system that, when engaged, tracks an object and keeps it in focus as it approaches or receeds from you. It has a "best guess" focusing system that, when engaged, looks at the scene, guesses what you're trying to focus on, and focuses on it. This works about 95% of the time and is great for quick shooting when you don't have a lot of time to prefocus. It also has a laser system that, when engaged, tracks your eyeball through the viewfinder and focuses the camera on whatever you're looking at.
For a flash, I have a:
Cannon 550EX
This is a brilliant flash. Everything you could ever ask for, though if you're getting a flash today, get the new 580EX which does ETTL2. High power (with a telephoto, I can light up something 80-100 feet away in a dark room), ETTL (preflashes & everything), redlamp night assist, attachable base, modeling lamp, rear-sync mode, strobe ability, full tilt and swivel for all your bouncing needs, heck -- it even has a built-in radio so if you buy two, the two flashes talk to each other and work in tandem.
The lenses I use:
Tamron 17-35 2.8-4IF
I bought this lense about a month ago and I can't say enough good things about it. The Tamron 17-35 2.8-4 matches the performance of the similar Cannon lenses (the 17-35 4.0L & 2.8L), yet only costs around 400 bucks. The build quality of this lense is not, however, as good as it's Cannon brothers, but I can't justify spending $800 more dollars just to get a weathersealed lense. A lense like this is a must for storm chasing. Wide angle is used much more than telephoto.
Sigma 28-110 2.8-4.0
This is a so-so lense. It's an el-cheapo in a sense -- you can tell when you get it that it's nowhere near the build quality or performance of it's Cannon brothers. I've used it a lot, but I've grown tired of the cromatic abberations and the slow hunt-and-peck focusing and the tendency for the barrel, which moves, to slide out when the camera is pointed down. It's not a bad lense for the money, but there are now some much better choices in the price range. If I were to replace it, I'd replace it with either the Tokina or the Cannon that competes in this zoom range. Or, I'd just get a 50 Cannon macro prime and call it even.
Sigma 70-200 2.8EX
This is another "great value for the price" lense. This lense performs better than its Cannon brothers (at the time it was made), yet only cost around $800. Very fast and quiet internal focus, no hunting and pecking, excellent image quality, full time manual focus, great build quality. This is a "steal" of a lense. The only thing it lacks is Cannon's image stabilization. At the time I bought the lense, image stabilization didn't exist. Also, it's not Cannon's trademark white color, so you run the risk of some of the photojournalist sheep sneering at you for using a *gasp* non Cannon lense. OH NO!
Also, since we're storm photographers, it's not a bad idea to have a rain poncho of some sort to cover your camera and lense. There are several brands of these -- they work great. You velcro them to your lense and snap or drape them over your camera body. Pro bodies and lenses (Cannon EOS3, EOS1-V, EOS 1-N, EOS 1-D, and all Cannon L series lenses) are rated to take a half inch of rain or so per hour, but I wouldn't push it. You fry a lense's electronics, more often than not you're looking at replacing the lense.