Photo Editing Question

Joined
Jan 16, 2009
Messages
765
Location
Kansas City
I’m seeing some amazing photos from members on here and I noticed a lot of them have a glossy look to them. How is that done? I use Lightroom to edit my shots but I have not seen an option as of yet that will give me that effect. In my opinion it adds a professional look to the shot.
 
A lot of it is the original lighting. That is, subjects that are illuminated from the front, not backlit. Other factors include contrast, depth of field, proper exposure, sharpness (very important), quality of camera sensors and the handing of RAW files (better) or sometimes JPEG files. Some of the older digital cameras have sensors that result in "flat" appearing images, and they will look diffused no matter how you process or enhance the RAW files.

I would experiment with different settings and cameras if possible, or ask the chasers who took the shots you like what camera / exposure / processing software / etc. they used.

W.
 
I am not aware of a "glossy" filter for images although there are "glass" filters in Photoshop, but I believe they are for illustrations and effects, not to make a photo look glossy. Someone on the list may have a trick or filtering method and they can chime in.

W.
 
The images you are referring to are probably HDR (high dynamic range) images, a series of images merged together to, in effect, enhance the light and dark areas of an image. This can often produce a plastic/glossy look and when overdone can make a picture look fake or extremely (unrealistically) vivid in color. It is a great technique but can be difficult to master. Just give it a search on google, there are tons of great programs available and guides to help you learn about HDR photography.
 
I find that noise reduction filters when aggressively applied can sometimes generate a glossy appearance to broader structures in a photograph. It can create a beautiful effect.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Hi James,

First off, thanks! I really appreciate your feedback.

There's been some great advice on this thread already, but I'll add a few more things. On my shots, I spend probably an average of 5 to 10 hours on each one processing them. This probably sounds like a lot, but that is what it takes for me to get them looking the way I want them. To me, processing is just as important as the actual framing and setup of the shot. The RAW files coming out of my camera have an incredible amount of information, but they do not accurately replicate the scene to my eye. They need to be processed to bring out the full potential.

One important thing is don't get too hung up on camera choice. I don't shoot with what most would call "Pro" gear (a Canon 30D and normally a 20mm prime lens). Most cameras, even point and shoot, can produce excellent results when used correctly.

Most of my shots recently have involved bracketting at -1 1/3 / 0 / +1 1/3 stops. I then merge these using either Photoshop or Photomatix and finalize them in Photoshop. I work in 16 bit TIF files throughout my entire workflow, and have found this to make a huge difference in the end result.

Here's a few things I think are important overall in the capture of the image:
* Shoot with a tripod, and use a remote. Essential for long exposures.
* If your camera has it, use Mirror Lock Up
* If shooting landscapes, use F16 to bring everything into focus
* Focus on something midway through the scene you are capturing
* Shoot in RAW and learn how to work with the files
* Use a circular polarizer for landscapes
* Consider shooting overlapping shots to create a panoramic
* Shoot in Manual and learn to control your exposure

I know this is a lot of information, but it was kind of a loaded question. If you have something more specific, I'd be glad to answer.

James
 
Thanks so much James I appreciate your time to respond to this thread. I have a Nikon D40 which does not allow for HDR photos but I'm looking to upgrade soon. The other information is very helpful and I'll work on those next time out.
 
Sure thing! For HDR, all you need to do is bracket your images like -1 /0 / +1 exposures. Bracketting means taking say 3 copies of the same image, but changing the exposure for each one. You then use a program like Photomatix or Photoshop to create a merge of those bracketted shots. The merge, if done correctly, can bring some detail into shadow areas as well as highlighted areas.

Can your D40 shoot bracketted images? I think most DSLRs can. You tell the camera what the bracket stop range is (1, 1 1/3, etc), and then fire off 3 shots. The camera changes the exposure for you.

Good luck!

James
 
James, you do make HDR look good. (Although it's still a little 'funny' IMO! :cool: )

If the camera doesn't have auto-bracket you can always run the it in manual mode. Leave the aperture set at f/x.x and zip off a series of shots at different shutter speeds. Doing so takes very little time - just turn the wheel two (or however many) clicks and push the shutter. Repeat until you've covered the desired dynamic range.
 
Back
Top