D. Hayes
Northern tool has a good price on battery isolators right now. if i didn't have a baby in my arms I'd post a link. =)
Are the Optima batteries all that they are cracked up to be? What about the DieHard Gold Tops? Or even the WallyMart premiums?
What is hot - and what is not?
And why?
I'm not a battery expert, but here're some thoughts about what I've read that influenced my setup....
The standard vehicle starting battery is designed to deliver and accept high currents, and to survive in the high temperatures of the engine compartment. It doesn't do that well for supplying a sustained current, and its life suffers if discharged toward exhaustion. The spiral-wound cell batteries for starting (Optima?) have premium design features at a premium price.
Deep-cycle batteries are designed to deliver and accept lower currents, and for less stressful temperatures. In return they provide significantly more total energy capacity and durability when run toward exhaustion.
It's not a good idea IMO to charge a deep-cycle battery directly off the alternator/regulator because the charging current (and voltage) can spike quite high.
I'm pretty sure you don't need 3 or even 2 batteries. Unless of course you plan on using a big microwave in your truck.
yes the silly LED light bar
Ok that makes sense since you have a 250. I'd first try running a heavy gauge fused cable for the inverter. Actually I'll point you to a knukonceptz.com their stuff is cheap and quality.
Joshua, I have been using a Optima yellow top battery, with the standard alternator in my Honda Ridgeline. It runs all my equipment and has not shown any draining issues. I have been very pleased. The battery came out of my Subaru Forrester which had a small alternator. The battery solved the problems with all the equipment drawing down the power. A good choice for what I needed to correct.