Canon T2i Suggestions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Taylor Campbell
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Taylor Campbell

Hey all.

I bought a Canon T2i not long ago as I really loved the camera and the difference that appeared in the quality of the pictures when compared to all the others on the shelf in Best Buy.

I was looking to see if I could get some friendly suggestions on better improving my camera shots (i.e. settings, additional equipment). I hope others on here have owned or currently own one and can pitch in.

Thank you.
 
The T2i is a more than capable camera. Instead of pointing you toward specific gear or settings for that camera, the best way to get better shots is to learn more about photography in general and practice what you learn with your camera. Practice a lot. There are some good photography books out there that others could recommend. There are also a bunch of decent tutorials online. Get comfortable shooting in manual mode. Know why you chose a particular aperture, exposure, or ISO setting and how it benefits the situation you're shooting. Lots of folks buy a DSLR expecting it to take great pictures for them and are surprised when they get grainy, or blurry shots in the automatic modes. You can pick better settings than your camera if you understand why you're picking them.

I will throw one setting out there. Shoot in raw mode or raw + jpeg. The raw format is like a digital negative and gives you a lot more room to play with when editing your shots in software like Lightroom. You'll probably want a tripod for certain situations. As you learn more about photography you'll probably want to expand your lens collection too. We could rattle off lenses here, but you should know what you want ahead of time. Ask yourself, "What am I trying to capture and why is this particular lens going to be better for this situation or subject?"
 
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Actually, I'll throw a lens out there. Check out the 50mm f/1.8 II. Its dirt cheap but one of the sharpest lenses you can get because its so simple. Its a prime so there is no zooming, but that will make you use your feet and really think about how you're framing your shots instead of constantly cranking the zoom in and out. The f/1.8 makes this a very "fast" lens too. That aperture will let you get shots in low light or portraits where your subject is in focus and the background is aesthetically blurred. I think you could really learn a lot practicing how to get decent looking shots with that lens. There's no reason not to have this lens really. It has the best bang for the buck.
 
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Hey Taylor, first off, it's a pretty big misnomer that the quality of camera will immediately improve your photos, or a certain type of camera takes better photos than others. While it may be slightly true if you start pixel peeping, cameras are more about performance and lenses are more about image quality. So if you want good, high quality images, lenses are usually a better investment per dollar. That said, the camera you got is a great body and performs very very well...you made a good choice. Skip already made a recommendation on a lens which is a pretty good bang for your buck, but with a crop sensor camera like yours the effective focal length is now 50mm x 1.6 = 80mm. 80mm is far too long to get good wide structure shots if that is what you want to take. It would be good, though, for tornado shots that you're not directly under the rotation. I personally prefer wide-angle zoom lenses while I'm chasing (and really for everything else) since you can go super wide to get a massive structure shot or zoom in slightly to get a closer view of an updraft or tube. Some excellent lens choices for your camera are the Canon 10-22mm, Tokina 12-24mm, or even the Canon 17-40mm or 17-55mm IS if you want to pay a bit more money.

But now on to your original question. Personally, I always shoot in either Aperture Priority or Manual mode...usually Aperture Priority unless have I time to compose and exposure a proper shot. I like to be able to control the aperture which will affect the sharpness and depth of field of focus. A larger aperture (smaller f/ number) will mean a faster shutter speed since you're letting more light in but less depth of focus and most lenses won't be quite as sharp wide open. A smaller aperture will mean a slower speed but usually a sharper image and more depth of field.

As for ISO speed, if I am on a tripod I will typically set it to 200 unless I need a faster shutter speed for some reason. If I'm shooting freehand, I'll typically turn it up to 400 or even 800 if my shutter speed gets too low. In storm photography, noise if often accentuated in the dark areas of storm clouds, so even though you may only be shooting at ISO 400, if your clouds are underexposed the noise will appear much worse. And since I already mentioned it, if time allows during your chases, GET A GOOD TRIPOD! There is absolutely nothing that affects the quality of your photos more than a tripod. You can always tell which people are serious about getting good photos and which people don't know what they're doing by the size of their tripod [insert joke here]. I realize that often times in storm photography a tripod is a luxury that often can't be taken out, but it never hurts to have a good solid one along.

Another good suggestion from Skip is to shoot RAW. It will take some time to learn to process correctly but you'll have so much more freedom and information available to you in the image that your image quality will improve drastically once you get the hang of it.

The final piece of advise is to simply get to know your equipment well. Get to know which buttons do what and what affect different settings have on your photos. When the shot of a lifetime comes along you should be able to switch settings on your rig without even looking at them.

Oh yeah I almost forgot the most important part: don't forget to have fun. It's a learning experience and one of the most rewarding things you can do. :D
 
Taylor, can you post some images, or a link to a gallery, that demonstrate your images' shortcomings?

As others are saying, once you reach a certain level, the camera / equipment really doesn't matter all that much. Assuming you don't have mushrooms growing inside the lens, a lowly Drebel Ti can take fantastic images. IMO, 90% of good photography occurs before immediately behind the viewfinder, before the shutter is pressed. ;)

Since the dawn of time, camera (and now software) companies have been pushing the great myth that buying more equipment will improve your pics. For the most part, it's 5-star B.S. Unless you have a specific need, and know what it is, buying more crap seldom accomplishes anything other than distracting you from making real improvement.
 
I'm going to touch on a few things Brett said. A good tripod is super important, but what makes a good tripod? For tornadoes you need to hop out of the car and get set up quickly - so you don't have time for messing around with tripods that are pan/tilt or don't have quick locks on the legs. The Manfrotto 190XB legs (~$150) and Manfrotto 494RC2 ball head ($~70) seem expensive. But you do *not* want to mess with a pan/tilt for storms. Right there, you pretty much rule out any tripod that is under $100. After breaking a $50 and a $100 tripod last year, I spent the money on the entry-level professional Manfrotto combo above. It hasn't been field tested yet, but I can tell it's much higher quality than what I was working with before. I also use a Manfrotto monopod which was only like $70 and that can be a good stop gap/alternative.

The 50 f/1.8 is almost a must-buy regardless of what you're shooting. It's so good, and so cheap. For newer chasers, the focal length is actually really good for taking pictures of tornadoes. Only when you're comfortable being under mesos and getting less a mile or two away from a tornado should you consider a wide angle lens for tornado photography. Using manual mode you can also stitch together 50mm shots if you want to get all of a storm's structure and they look great, so you don't have to miss out on these types of shots. From personal experience, the 17-40L is kind of 'meh' for chasing. It's only f/4 so it's not that great for low-light. You'll find yourself shooting wide open a lot - and the lens just isn't that sharp wide open. The Canon 10-22 and Tokina 11-16 are both better choices for crop bodies like the T2i. The Tamron 17-50 is much better bang for your buck compared to the Canon 17-55 IS if you really like the kit zoom range.
 
I think a good all-around lens and a lens that's good for chasing is the Canon 15-85. It is wide and yet has some good zoom. Google it that lens to find reviews. I have one and I love it. IMHO if you get this lens it will keep you from needing another until you get comfortable with photography enough to decide to invest more $ into it and get other lenses like the Canon 10-22 or Tokina 11-16. Just my .02...
 
i have my t2i and admit .. i love love love my camera. TIME has been my best teacher, i was fortunate to have some other lenses from my other canon.
I love the 17-40 but it is expensive ... i love my tamron 18-270mm excellent all around lens.... as far as settings, take a weekend and take pictures of everything using the different buttons ... i have photographed spiders squirrels, trees, sunsets, moon, and stars it has helped my quality alot ....

be sure to post where we can see your pictures as well ... that would be nice ! if you have anything specific you are more than welcome to ask me !
 
I think a good all-around lens and a lens that's good for chasing is the Canon 15-85. It is wide and yet has some good zoom. Google it that lens to find reviews. I have one and I love it. IMHO if you get this lens it will keep you from needing another until you get comfortable with photography enough to decide to invest more $ into it and get other lenses like the Canon 10-22 or Tokina 11-16. Just my .02...

I will second this. The 15-85 is a super high quality lens and takes some great pictures. I picked one up after this past chase season and can't wait to use it this spring, but so far I am loving the versatility of the lens and the IQ is top notch for a non L series lens. It gets just wide enough for decent structure shots and it makes a great walk around lens. I picked mine up in like new condition on Fred Miranda for $550, but they seem to average close to $600.
 
I'll 3rd the 15-85. The IQ is amazing and it's super versatile. I've had mine since they were first introduced and it is parked on the front of my 50D. It actually replaced a Sigma 10-20 & Sigma 17-70 combination I had and I don't have any regrets. The 15mm is plenty wide, and if you need more width for chasing, merging several photos into a pano is an option.
 
Thank you all so much for the great and in depth information! I will take each suggestion into consideration and will keep you posted. I do love the Canon T2i thus far and I can't wait to improve the camera's abilities and my abilities to shoot great shots while out in the field, and get that picture perfect shot when I need to the most. I know your information will lead me in doing just that. Thanks again, and I'm always open to more info.
 
I'll add my vote to the 15-85. And I thought my 18-55IS kit did fine. Wow was I wrong...this lens rocks!! I took some amazing lightning shots with it the other night and the IQ is simply amazing. I will be making some prints to hang on the wall.
 
Thank you, but unfortunately I do not have the money to afford the lens now. Perhaps by the time I do the original price will have dropped a hundred dollars. :)
 
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