Advice on taking better lightning photography?

[NealRasmussen]

I just wanted to clarify the difference between a Lightning Trigger and a Remote. The Lightning Trigger will see the lightning and fire the camera for you. This is really only needed in "Storm Dark" settings or at dusk, unless you put on a lot of ND filters. If fairly bright out, 1/60th sec exposure of faster, it will be real real hard to photo a spark at all. So really the "Triggers" will just replace the method of "reaction time" shots. But will most likely work a lot better, unless you have cat reflexes. The other alternative when shooting in low light, but not "no light", is just to shoot a LOT of pics. One after another. If the exposure is down to the 1/2 of a second, with camera cycle time, you might have something like a 50% chance of catching it. That is, you're shooting a pic half the time.

The ND Filters, Neutral Density, cut light out without changing color. So you can use a slower exposure. This would be a somewhat rare occurrence that it's so bright out you're faster than 1/30sec, but still not "full sun" so you can actually see the lightning. Of course they're also good for nature shots to make water go blurry.

Remote controls are just that. They don't sense the lightning, they just let you fire the camera remotely. I have a ShutterBoss that'll cost ya $100, and I think for just firing the camera, one at a lot less $s will do quite nicely. Oh, ya. Rechargeable batts are a must on the ShutterBoss. Two sets actually. Unless rich or you hate the planet.

 

[Paul Knightley]

Of course, you could download iLightningCam for iOS! It's actually not bad for if you're ever in a storm without your camera for whatever reason.

As all the excellent replies have said above you do need to spend some cash to get decent results - however, I've taken many decent lightning pics just using a reasonable non-DSLR camera - just one which has manual options (i.e. shutter speed/ISO/etc). I now use a Sony RX10 which is a bridge-style camera, along with a shutter release. It's done very well thus far, and although the results cannot match a DSLR ultimately (due to the smaller sensor size, etc) it does very well for an all-in-one. The RX10 II has just come out now, too, and along with 4K video, it has a 1000 fps video function, which would be very interesting for slow-speed lightning work!

 

[Marc R. O'Leary]

I always wanted to try high framerate lightning video..my LG-G3 has 120fps, but I keep forgetting to try it.

 

[Greg Campbell]

Your image isn't showing, so I'll take your word that it sucks!

IMO, DSLR is the way to go. Even an ancient 6MP body will produce better (much better) images than a pad or cell phone ever could.
A decent lightning kit can be had around $200, less if you're on a tight budget.

Grab an 'obsolete' camera off KEH Megapickles don't matter all that much. Look for a sweet-spot compromise that fits your budget.
https://www.keh.com/search/list?n=128&category[]=Bodies&sort_by=priceMax-asc

And add a lens or two. FWIW, I've had good results with old Olympus/Zuiko manual focus lenses that cost $20 and up. I have a 28mm/3.5, 50mm/1.8
Manual focus lenses are great, there is no difficulty trying to focus in the dark, no hunting as the camera's AF tries to lock onto some distant light - simply turn the focus ring all the way 'till it stops. You're ready to shoot! I have a few AF lenses, but avoid using the bleeping things whenever possible - it's SO east to wind up just a hair out of focus and ruin an entire run of frames.

A $15 adapter couples my 'mighty' Rebel XT (8 MP!) camera to the lenses. There are MANY inexpensive, fully usable combinations of lens + camera.

Throw in a tripod of some sort. You can make do with a well built micro-pod provided you have a good surface to rest it on.
A more traditional full size unit will be more convenient, but will naturally cost a bit more. Get something sturdy, not a 'K-Mart special' junker.

IMO, an electronic trigger is largely useless (and actually counter-productive) unless you absolutely must catch day time bolts. Once the sun sets, shutter speeds generally become long enough to allow simply 'machine gunning' with the shutter help in continuous 'Rambo' mode by a $15 cable+switch. (Something resembling https://www.keh.com/213612/canon-eo...eos-1-1n-rs-a2-a2e-t90-grip-gr-20-620-630-650 )

Most of https://www.flickr.com/photos/19806236@N00/sets/72157622800084513 were shot with the kit mentioned, a modest (disposable) Rebel XT mated to old Oly glass.

 

[Rachel Donoghue]

I just wanted to clarify the difference between a Lightning Trigger and a Remote. The Lightning Trigger will see the lightning and fire the camera for you. This is really only needed in "Storm Dark" settings or at dusk, unless you put on a lot of ND filters. If fairly bright out, 1/60th sec exposure of faster, it will be real real hard to photo a spark at all. So really the "Triggers" will just replace the method of "reaction time" shots. But will most likely work a lot better, unless you have cat reflexes. The other alternative when shooting in low light, but not "no light", is just to shoot a LOT of pics. One after another. If the exposure is down to the 1/2 of a second, with camera cycle time, you might have something like a 50% chance of catching it. That is, you're shooting a pic half the time.

The ND Filters, Neutral Density, cut light out without changing color. So you can use a slower exposure. This would be a somewhat rare occurrence that it's so bright out you're faster than 1/30sec, but still not "full sun" so you can actually see the lightning. Of course they're also good for nature shots to make water go blurry.

Remote controls are just that. They don't sense the lightning, they just let you fire the camera remotely. I have a ShutterBoss that'll cost ya $100, and I think for just firing the camera, one at a lot less $s will do quite nicely. Oh, ya. Rechargeable batts are a must on the ShutterBoss. Two sets actually. Unless rich or you hate the planet.

Thanks for the heads up. I will try out both and see what happens. I'll be sure to always have alot of extra batteries. ^^

Of course, you could download iLightningCam for iOS! It's actually not bad for if you're ever in a storm without your camera for whatever reason.

As all the excellent replies have said above you do need to spend some cash to get decent results - however, I've taken many decent lightning pics just using a reasonable non-DSLR camera - just one which has manual options (i.e. shutter speed/ISO/etc). I now use a Sony RX10 which is a bridge-style camera, along with a shutter release. It's done very well thus far, and although the results cannot match a DSLR ultimately (due to the smaller sensor size, etc) it does very well for an all-in-one. The RX10 II has just come out now, too, and along with 4K video, it has a 1000 fps video function, which would be very interesting for slow-speed lightning work!

Thank you. That is interesting to know. I have decided to go along and get a Canon DSLR camera, but if there was ever a situation where I was out on a storm and didn't have my DSLR camera with me, I will definitely heed your advice.

I always wanted to try high framerate lightning video..my LG-G3 has 120fps, but I keep forgetting to try it.

I've also been wanting to catch lightning in slow speed. Maybe someday.

Your image isn't showing, so I'll take your word that it sucks!

IMO, DSLR is the way to go. Even an ancient 6MP body will produce better (much better) images than a pad or cell phone ever could.
A decent lightning kit can be had around $200, less if you're on a tight budget.

Grab an 'obsolete' camera off KEH Megapickles don't matter all that much. Look for a sweet-spot compromise that fits your budget.
https://www.keh.com/search/list?n=128&category[]=Bodies&sort_by=priceMax-asc

And add a lens or two. FWIW, I've had good results with old Olympus/Zuiko manual focus lenses that cost $20 and up. I have a 28mm/3.5, 50mm/1.8
Manual focus lenses are great, there is no difficulty trying to focus in the dark, no hunting as the camera's AF tries to lock onto some distant light - simply turn the focus ring all the way 'till it stops. You're ready to shoot! I have a few AF lenses, but avoid using the bleeping things whenever possible - it's SO east to wind up just a hair out of focus and ruin an entire run of frames.

A $15 adapter couples my 'mighty' Rebel XT (8 MP!) camera to the lenses. There are MANY inexpensive, fully usable combinations of lens + camera.

Throw in a tripod of some sort. You can make do with a well built micro-pod provided you have a good surface to rest it on.
A more traditional full size unit will be more convenient, but will naturally cost a bit more. Get something sturdy, not a 'K-Mart special' junker.

IMO, an electronic trigger is largely useless (and actually counter-productive) unless you absolutely must catch day time bolts. Once the sun sets, shutter speeds generally become long enough to allow simply 'machine gunning' with the shutter help in continuous 'Rambo' mode by a $15 cable+switch. (Something resembling https://www.keh.com/213612/canon-eo...eos-1-1n-rs-a2-a2e-t90-grip-gr-20-620-630-650 )

Most of https://www.flickr.com/photos/19806236@N00/sets/72157622800084513 were shot with the kit mentioned, a modest (disposable) Rebel XT mated to old Oly glass.

Ha-ha! XD It's alright. It really does suck.

Thank you very much for the advice. I greatly appreciate it. I am already saving up for a Canon DSLR camera and the other supplies that need to go with it. Thanks for mentioning the lightning kit. I will definitely have to get it at some point.

 

[Robert Forry]

This is a great thread! I've wanted to ask about this for some time as I've struggled taking lightning shots. I have a good DSLR (Canon t4i), decent tripod (MeFOTO) and a wired trigger. I'm still learning my settings and set up, so the ones mentioned will be a huge help. Thanks gang!!

 

[Rachel Donoghue]

This is a great thread! I've wanted to ask about this for some time as I've struggled taking lightning shots. I have a good DSLR (Canon t4i), decent tripod (MeFOTO) and a wired trigger. I'm still learning my settings and set up, so the ones mentioned will be a huge help. Thanks gang!!

You're welcome. I hope it was helpful.

 

[Marc R. O'Leary]

Well...I was out last night...and while I got some decent shots, I got a ton of crap shots...so that's typical of shooting bolts.

I was thinking about this thread as I ran from F2.8 thru F8.0 and ISO100 up to ISO1600. There's really no set way to shoot lightning. Having to constantly adjust settings and focus is just part of the game. Sort of the challenge.

Yet I'll still go out, again and again, to capture the thing that only me and my camera will ever see, from that spot, at that time.

Love it.

My wife thinks I'm a loon, but I'm happy in a field in the middle of nowhere, at night, shooting electricity.

 

[Rachel Donoghue]

Well...I was out last night...and while I got some decent shots, I got a ton of crap shots...so that's typical of shooting bolts.

I was thinking about this thread as I ran from F2.8 thru F8.0 and ISO100 up to ISO1600. There's really no set way to shoot lightning. Having to constantly adjust settings and focus is just part of the game. Sort of the challenge.

Yet I'll still go out, again and again, to capture the thing that only me and my camera will ever see, from that spot, at that time.

Love it.

My wife thinks I'm a loon, but I'm happy in a field in the middle of nowhere, at night, shooting electricity.

Practice makes perfect as they always say. That's what I'll just have to do. That is interesting... I guess there is just many different methods and settings to catch lighting shots.

 

[Dan Robinson]

I wrote this tutorial back in the late 1990s during the film era - I updated with with some DSLR tips:

http://stormhighway.com/ptips.php

 

[Rachel Donoghue]

I wrote this tutorial back in the late 1990s during the film era - I updated with with some DSLR tips:

http://stormhighway.com/ptips.php

Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial with us. ^^ This will be very helpful.

 

[Jeremy Bower]

A couple years ago at the Weatherfest event in Lincoln, I offered some tips/advice on how to get better lightning photographs. Below is a link to the video of my presentation.

From Storms to Sunsets: The Science and Art of My Photography

Lightning portion of the talk begins at 23:45

 

[Rachel Donoghue]

A couple years ago at the Weatherfest event in Lincoln, I offered some tips/advice on how to get better lightning photographs. Below is a link to the video of my presentation.

From Storms to Sunsets: The Science and Art of My Photography

Lightning portion of the talk begins at 23:45

Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I will definitely give it a watch.

 

[Greg Campbell]

Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial with us. ^^ This will be very helpful.

Dan's guide is just about spot-on, IMO. He's one of the few that seems to 'get' the aperture vs. lightning brightness/distance concept. All I'd add is the notion of scouting favorable vantage points ahead of time. Then, when the storms arrive from a given direction, you'll know right where to go!

 

[Marc R. O'Leary]

Very good point on scouting Greg. I have a handful of local spots I rely on.. Nothing more frustrating than watching a storm really light up and not being able to find a safe dark spot to set up shop.