RIGrunner and Anderson PowerPole Connectors

  • Thread starter Thread starter A Brown
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A Brown

Does anyone use a RIGrunner with the Anderson PowerPole connectors for access to DC?

If so, have you had any issues with the connectors staying connected? I just received my RIGrunner, so it is new to me. I purchased a couple different connectors (automatic switch, cigarette plugs) and the connections seem like they will easily come apart. I've also crimped several PP connectors myself and the connections are the same.

If you were able to improve the connections, what did you do?
 
I too just got my Anderson power poles. I have made several cables for different scenarios I might run across in rental vehicles. I agree that they seem like they will easily come disconnected, so I was planning on using a little tape for inline connections. I got these connectors because of how poor cigarette lighters are as a ongoing power connector.

I did get a new set of jaws for my crimper so that I could make my own cables. Pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I wanted to make sure everything is fused, so I got the RGrunner 4005. I am fusing at the power acquisition point, and the entry of the 4005, and on each output. It is important that you consider the load of everything and size fuses accordingly. I also found a device that you can take out a fuse on the fuse block, install this item, reinstall the original fuse in it, and then can install up to a 10 amp fuse for power leading to the 4005. As stated, I do think I will use a small amount of tape on inline connections, but I do not perceive the 4005 needing any help.
 
I'd recommend getting the crimp tool, we use the RigRunner and Anderson Power poles for most everything DC in our (TTU) vehicles, there have been a few issues early on with connectors but once I got the hang of crimping things have been much more rugged.
 
I use Powerpoles on just about every piece of amateur gear I have that takes 12V in and use a Rigrunner 4005 myself for my voice and APRS radios as well as a pig tail for the GPS puck in the mobile, and have never had a problem with the connectors coming apart unless I explicitly pulled them apart.

(I have way more trouble with the stupid cigarette lighter plug on the GPS18PC for the APRS setup than I do with the Rig Runner or Powerpoles)

I will also agree on the advice of "buy the crimper." It will save you a lot of time and frustration. I borrowed one when I did my mobile install on my first truck and was sold, it makes attaching the tabs to the cables solid and pretty much idiot proof.

If you are worried about it, though (really high vibration truck or something) you can go to powerwerx.com and get clips that fit through the roll pin holes and will clip the Power Poles together.

Powerwerx also has all of the Powerpole goodies you can think of and even has them in the huge sizes appropriate for a large UPS or a jumpstart cable for a vehicle.

(Please note that I have no financial interest in Powerwerx, Anderson, West Mountain, etc... Just a happy user of their gear)

--
Brent -- KD5WYU
 
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I used a RR for the setup in my Jeep Liberty. I run my Yaesu FT-8800 and a 400W inverter for my laptop. I've only had one problem in the two times I've chased this year, and it seems to be power fluctuations coming from the Jeep itself. I noticed my laptop screen flicker a few times as the laptop switched from battery to AC and back again. I thought maybe I was getting "dirty" power from the RR, but it happened when the inverter was plugged into the 12V lighter also.

In short, I highly recommend the RR.
 
Walt/Ian/Brent/Chris, thank you for the information. It sounds like the Anderson Power Pole connectors are quality products, and their connections better than I thought at first.

I did find, as Brent said I would, various "official" connectors that will hold the connections together. I also found a RIGrunner Retainer Kit (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner/pwrlock.htm) that looks interesting if one were very worried about disconnects.

I will try mine as-is for now. I did find a suggestion to just use plastic cable ties to "link" the connections together, when one is wanting to guarantee a non-removable connection.
 
A Brown, Nice find on the retainer kit. I will definately keep that in mind.

I am also using the poles inline, not just at the rigrunner, and have built "extension cords" as I do not know what rental vehicle I get and the unique requirements of each. I have removed cig lighter connectors from many power cords and installed power poles instead.

IMPORTANT NOTE FOR ALL: the fuses coming from the factory on the rigrunners may not be the appropriate size for what you might be plugging into the socket. This does not just apply to the outputs, but inputs as well. In my situation, all of my source feeds to the rigrunner are fused at 10amp. The input on the rigrunner is also fused at 10amp. If a devise plugged into the rigrunner has an internal 2amp fuse, then the output I have it plugged into is like fused at 2amp. Have extra fuses with you too. I purchased a little plastic compartment bin at home depot, and carry an assortment of the fuses, both standard (for the rigrunner) and mini as most of the latest vehicles are using that type, if not the standard. Fuses are designed to blow if they are overpowered, rather than cause a short and/or fire. If you overfuse the system, your protection is deminished. USE the right fuse, not the most convenient.

In rental cars, I dont have the luxury of going through the firewall and directly to the battery itself. I have also purchased one of these in both standard and mini version. http://www.bussmann.com/images/3c2dce34-cf0b-43a1-aabf-d886ccd13aad.JPG
I have removed the blue one time crimp connecter and installed a red powerpole connector on both sizes. Also note that proper installation of this is needed as there is a right way and a wrong way to plug it in. The instructions are very clear. Likewise, I have made different styles of negative connector that can be screwed or clamped at a convenient location where a good solid ground can be found. There is also another option for taping off the fuse block. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31DZW5K8EZL._SL500_AA280_.jpg coupled with a fuse holder like this http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4106/681/22762840010_large.jpg will also work fine when properly installed and fused as indicated above.

Proper wire size or gauge is also important. Use the proper gauge for the amount of current each devise needs. Over fusing very tiny wire is a fire waiting to happen.

Last but not least, these fuses are little and hard to get your fingers on, especially when you are on your back, in low light, head smashed against the brake pedal. A fuse tester and puller are important to get the job done fast and effeciently. http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/051712/051712597203md.jpg This type of unit is a great investment. My yellow tester/puller as shown in the pic works with both standard and mini fuses.



Dont go chasing with out it.

Above all, stay safe and happy chasing.
 
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