Photography Equipment and question

[James Weatherman]

OK I need some help with a photography issue and have a question about equipment. I use a Canon T1i and have been trying to get some lightning shots but they have been a lesser quality then what I want. I am using Manual setting, with 5.6 aperture and have it set for bulb with my remote release on a tripod. Is there anything else that I should be doing other equipment that I might need or need to adjust the settings some.

Also is there a way to take IR pictures on a digital camera that anyone knows of? I use to be able to with my film 35mm but this is really the first big digital that I have ever had and would like to be able to take some IR pictures of some storms just to play around.

Forgot is there any protection for the camera to keep it from getting wet short of putting it in a plastic bag. I have not seen any water proof cases for the T1i or other digitals. Just checking to see what people might use or if there is a case for them.

 

[Mike Peregrine]

James ... you might try a few things for lightning.

*Depending on your proximity to the lightning, adjust your F-stop accordingly. The closer the lightning is to my location, the more I stop a lens down. F5.6 is generally good for moderately-distanced lightning. But you gotta play with it.

*Usually I'm good with just leaving my shutter open 8-10 secs, but it depends on the storm. The longer you leave a shutter open, the more noise accumulates on the sensor. You can definitely use bulb, and lots of people do ... but you'll just need to manipulate ISO and F-stop around it.

*Keep your ISO at a good range for the conditions. The lower the better, as far as noise is concerned. But, it depends on how close you are to the lightning again, and also the lens you're using. If your lens can go 4.0 or better, you can use a lower ISO. Otherwise, you'll have to increase the ISO according to the conditions.

I normally have to play around quite a bit before getting "the shot" ... hope this helped.

For IR, I'm not sure ... but I know you can artificially create it with software techniques. Otherwise, maybe some filter action? Someone else probably has some experience with that ...

 

[Mike Peregrine]

Ahh, on your added question ... I have one of those little window mount tripod thingies that help keep my camera dry. But it's always an issue. I like to back out away from a storm a bit to get lightning ...

 

[Robert Edmonds]

With respect to the IR question... There are some companies out there that will take the filter off of a DSLR to allow your camera to see IR light. However, this voids any warranty, and you need to have a camera that you're willing to 'sacrifice' because this is usually a permanent change to the camera (i.e. you're dedicating it to this type of photography).

Kata makes some camera rain covers, however I find they're more a hassle than anything else. I also hardly worry about a few drops of rain any more on my camera.

 

[Greg Campbell]

OK I need some help with a photography issue and have a question about equipment. I use a Canon T1i and have been trying to get some lightning shots but they have been a lesser quality then what I want. I am using Manual setting, with 5.6 aperture and have it set for bulb with my remote release on a tripod. Is there anything else that I should be doing other equipment that I might need or need to adjust the settings some.

Also is there a way to take IR pictures on a digital camera that anyone knows of? I use to be able to with my film 35mm but this is really the first big digital that I have ever had and would like to be able to take some IR pictures of some storms just to play around.

Forgot is there any protection for the camera to keep it from getting wet short of putting it in a plastic bag. I have not seen any water proof cases for the T1i or other digitals. Just checking to see what people might use or if there is a case for them.

Can you post some examples of your lightning shots? I'm sure there plenty of folks will be happy to critique your efforts!

f/5.6 is about right for ASA 100 film or sensor speed. If the lightning is reasonably close, f/6.7 or 8 will reduce blown-out highlights.

In short, set the aperture according to the brightness and distance of the lightning, check that the focus is as close as possible (AF can't work in the dark, and the small, dim viewfinders found on digital cameras seldom have focusing aids), and then leave the shutter open until you accumulate enough light to expose the clouds, sky, scenery, whatever. Don't terminate an exposure just because you caught a bolt - leave the shutter open until the image is fully exposed!

Shoot at the lowest ISO possible. Higher values will gain you nothing but noise. A possible exception occurs if your lens needs to be stopped down to perform well.

Needless to say, you NEED a sturdy tripod.



Most digicams have an integral infrared filter fitted over the sensor. You can have this removed, or DIY, but the camera's visible color balance will be affected. See http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod450d1.html This article suggests that by using a custom color balance, you can achieve near-nomal daylight/visible results with the IR-filter removed! Hum! Interrrrrresting!

If you have any EF (full frame) lenses, you could buy an old film body for next to nothing (maybe you have one rusting away in the closet?) and shoot one of several IR films. Some cool examples at: http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=ir%20film&w=all

 

[David Schuttler]

I've got something like this umbrella from B&H to help when it's a light rain

 

[Brian Emfinger]

5.6 is ok for distant shots but your going to need to be higher for closer and more intense strikes. Unless I am trying for structure + lightning I wont even mess around with less than F9 (at ISO100 and usually less than 30 sec exposures). Most of my recent good strikes have been even higher...

this massive strike was at F14 (its at 10mm...it was very close) - http://www.realclearwx.com/images/2010/03271010.jpg

this one was I at F10 but was still overexposed due to lightning strength and closeness - http://www.realclearwx.com/images/2010/01201001.jpg

for rain protection (I also use a T1i) I just got one of these and it works fine..especially with a lens hood - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/469774-REG/OP_TECH_USA_9001132_18_Rainsleeve_Set_of.html

 

[Olivier Staiger]

my basic setting is

ISO 100, f/8 , 30 secs

but often I go to ISO 200 and / or f/5.6 , it depends on storm , proximity, brightness of lightning , etc.

and I shoot, shoot, shoot, and sometimes longer than 30 secs and sometimes shorter

and there is still lots of luck involved, to actually have a nice , clear CG, that makes a good photo, as there is a lot of lightning hidden in the clouds or at the edge of where you are pointing the camera or just outside the field of view, etc.

here are a few of my best lightning shots

http://www.klipsi.ch/blitze/lightning.htm

on some of those you can check the EXIF info that will tell you the settings that were used. for example, the first shot was ISO 200, f/8, 20 secs. I just shoot till lightning happens.

 

[Mike Hollingshead]

I think it is going to be pretty hard to get a camera too wet while still being able to use it for much. Even if it's too wet to use, I think it's going to be hard to even ruin it then. Reminds me I still need to put my original rebel in the shower and see how long it goes till it fails.

Digital should make the rest easy. Practice is the only real learning method and it shouldn't take a ton while being able to see what happens right after the fact. Not going to be much of any real good "guide setting".

http://www.extremeinstability.com/stormpics/2006/06-7-25-7230.jpg

For instance that was F1.8.......at 800 ISO. Ignore the city light coloring I never corrected. Seems like plenty of times I've had to put the F1.8 50mm on there and ISO up to get anything useful.

http://www.extremeinstability.com/stormpics/2007/07-8-6-5327.jpg

Even that was 800 ISO lol...10mm hitting about a block away. Course I was having to hand hold it in the car on the edge of the window, leaned back some, to get a still of the storm and just quick drawed that bolt...so missing some(surely a lot) of the duration of it.

Anyway, I just don't think there's going to be too many useful hard and fast settings for lightning. A short bit of practice should quickly educate one on what is probably needed if they understand how the exposure settings work. Then it is pretty simple, considering its digital.

 

[D. Hayes]

Good info all!

One thing I would like to add is get a wireless remote for shutter control. I put my camera in bulb mode and hold the shutter open till I see a bolt then release. If a bolt don't strike within a few seconds I'll stop the exposure and start a new capture.

One other thing is make certain your focus is set to infinity. Some lenses have a bit of play in them so you may have to back off a bit to actually have it.

 

[James Weatherman]

Thanks and some photos

Thanks for the information everyone. I forgot to add I have the camera set at 200 ISO, with the 5.6 aperture, and the bulb setting with my lens set for manual as well as the camera. I normally have been holding with the remote for anywhere from 10 to 15 seconds. I have been using monopod while setting in my vehicle out of the elements trying, but found the vehicle was still rocking with the wind so my images turned out terrible compared to what I was hoping for. I will try to get some images added at this time they are all failing to upload.

 

[D. Hayes]

Go on to www.bhphotovideo.com and look at these rain covers. I don't use my good camera in the elements yet. That's what my P&S camera is for in its underwater case.

 

[James Langford]

Lightning

Lots of good advice for lightning here. Mine mirrors everyone else:

* Sturdy Tripod
* ISO 100
* Set manual focus ahead of time. If you are shooting in Manual mode, it won't change each shot. I try to find a bright light source and set it to infinity.
* A good remote will ease your shooting
* I like to set my aperture first, and it depends upon the intensity of the lightning. Close bright lightning, higher aperture. Further away, lower more open aperture. If the lightning is very faint, you may need to increase the ISO to capture it.
* I then set my shutter speed to fit the scene. Buildings and lights? Expose so the buildings/lights aren't blown out. Big dark empty field? 30 seconds or maybe more sometimes.
* Try to bring something interesting into the foreground. Even if it is a tree or something. Makes the shot more interesting to look at.
* Shoot in RAW. Lots of room for editing in RAW.
* If your lens has Image Stabilization, turn it off!
* If your camera has Mirror Lock Up, and you are shooting any bright elements (lights, building, etc), use it. It will reduce vibration from the mirror slap.
* Shoot a lot. Don't be afraid too take too many images. Delete the bad ones.

A few samples:

Canon 10D with 20mm lens. ISO 100, F10, 8 seconds. Blend of 3 exposures

Canon 30D with 28-135mm lens. ISO 100, F5.6, 8 seconds.

Sony F707 at full wide. ISO 100, F5.6, 10 seconds.

Canon 10D with 20mm lens. ISO 100, F4, 1/60 second. Blend of 3 exposures

Canon 30D with 20mm lens. ISO 100, F16, 15 seconds.

Canon 10D with 20mm lens. ISO 100, F5.6, 8 seconds. Blend of 2 exposures

Have fun!

James

 

[James Langford]

IR

I wanted to split this up to add an IR reply. I love shooting IR, and it is possible to do with a Digital SLR, but difficult. I originally started shooting with a Sony F707 camera, which had a Nightshot mode. This mode moved the IR blocking mirror out of the way, and allowed for handheld IR shot using an IR filter. With a DSLR, there is generally a strong IR blocking filter in front of the sensor.

In order to shoot IR you are going to need an IR filter. It basically blocks visible light, and only lets IR wavelengths through. I recommend and own a Hoya R72 filter. Works well, but is expensive.

There are two ways to shoot IR with a DSLR:

1) Shoot long exposures with an unmodified DSLR. This can produce neat results (see the examples at the end), but is tricky. Because of the blocking mirror, you have to shoot long exposures. My typical exposure values are F4 or so and 8 to 10 seconds in bright sunlight. This doesn't work for all scenes, as if anything moves during the exposure it's going to look funky. Also, when you use an IR filter, the focus is thrown off slightly. You have to adjust, and it is hard. Some lenses, like my Canon 28-135, have red IR focus marks on them. Most do not. I can't really give you good advice here other than trial and error to find something that works.

2) Shoot normal exposures using a modified camera. The camera modification is to remove the blocking mirror. I wouldn't recommend this unless you aren't planning to use this camera for anything other than IR. You'll have to put a blocking IR filter on when shooting normally, and I don't like the results I have seen from them.

There are companies out there that will modify your camera for you for a couple $100 bucks. I chose to do it myself, which involved taking my old 10D apart and removing the filter. You can then replace the filter with a cut piece of glass. I chose not to do this, and instead shoot "naked" so to speak.

Another option you have is to buy an old Sony F707 or F717, both of which can shoot handheld IR without anything other than an IR blocking filter and a few ND filters.

Here are some sample images:

Sony F707 in Manual mode. F4 and 10 seconds

Sony F707 in Nightshot mode. F2.8 and 1/60

Canon 10D modified with Hoya R72 with 20mm lens. F16 and 1/20 seconds. Pano from 8 images.

Canon 10D modified with Hoya R72 with 20mm lens. F16 and 1/60. Pano from 10 source images.

Canon 10D modified with Hoya R72 with 20mm lens. F16 and 1/60 second.

Canon 10D with Hoya R72 and 20mm lens. F16 and 1/10.

Canon 10D with Hoya R72 and Canon 20mm lens. F16 and 1/10 second.

Thanks,

James

 

[Richard Dickson]

I noticed a comment in Post #13 for lightning photography setups by James Langford about turning off the Image Stabilization when shooting lightning shots. I hadn’t heard of this before, so I sent him a PM about the reasoning and thought I would pass along his answer to share with the group. Maybe I’m the only one who wasn’t aware of this.


He stated:

“I found out about turning off the IS feature when using a tripod when I first bought my 28-135. I was shooting skyline shots, and kept seeing a blurring in the features that shouldn't be there. I dug around online a bit, and found reference that the IS should always be off on a tripod. If not, it will actually shake the camera while it is sitting on the tripod. This may not be noticeable all the time, but it is for sure when shooting a city skyline.

I believe it's actually in the manual for the lens as well, but who actually reads manuals? ;-)”