Extreme tire wear: Tire Rack / Kumho experience

[Tim Vasquez]

Back in May I decided to order some top-rated economy Kumho Solus KH16 tires from Tire Rack online and have them shipped to me. I was impressed by the survey ratings on it. The tires arrived by UPS and I had them installed right away.

Here's what they looked like 4 months and 2500 miles later:

The flat tire I took off.

View of the other tire that is still on the car -- it is already separating!

Larger view of the flat tire.

My receipt.

To hell with warranties... I'm not "replacing" these. I'm contacting Tire Rack, and if I hear anything I'll post about it.

Tim

 

[David Drummond]

Were these on the front? That looks like severe front-end mis-alignment wear,

 

[Jerry Prsha]

Were these on the front? That looks like severe front-end mis-alignment wear,

I was just about to say the same thing. It looks like the front end was pointed inwards and they weren't rolling but sliding on the tread.

 

[Tim Vasquez]

Yep, I'm starting to come around to that line of thinking after noticing that the wear on both tires is on the inside. I'm probably deceived by the fact that the car steers perfectly straight. Also the car has a ton of miles and has never had new struts, so maybe that's another issue. I guess I'll have to go easy on Tire Rack and accept some blame for this.

Tim

 

[Dan Robinson]

I used to buy the 'discount brand' Kumhos and Kellys regularly when I had my Ranger (about $70-80 per tire through a local wholesaler). I had a lifetime alignment package with Firestone, so always got an alignment job done before I bought new tires. The tires only seemed to last for a few months before I started noticing pronounced wear. I would almost always need to get new tires before and after chase season.

Thie first time the wholesaler was out of the size I needed, I bought a set of Goodyears for around $100 per tire. They lasted about 3 times longer than the Kellys and saved me money in the long run. I am still using Goodyears today on my car, and even with active chasing, I only need to replace them once a year.

 

[Clarence Bennett]

It is a total camber issue...wow, that is some wear.

 

[Rob Wadsworth]

Not only is your front end misaligned - but there is a high likelihood that certain parts of your suspension has worn parts. Unless you have been hitting curbs - which could easily throw your alignment way off as well (toe-in/toe-out and camber adjustments). The mileage on your vehicle will be the determining factor in this - as well as the type of suspension and vehicle make, model, and year.

As David D pointed out, Firestone would be a xlnt place to go - they usually hire the best non-dealership mechanics that know their way around suspensions and their related problems. Tire wear that shows the kind of wear pattern that is shown in the pictures you have provided - would certainly affect your ability to brake, steer, and even your gas mileage (due to a high amount of rolling resistance).

 

[David Drummond]

As David D pointed out, Firestone would be a xlnt place to go

I did? I don't recall that.

 

[Rob Wadsworth]

I did? I don't recall that.

Right.
The credit goes to Dan Robinson.
My Bad.

 

[Steve Polley]

As an ASE Mastertech by trade, this is a definite camber wear issue. I would also recommend that you get a before and after printout of the alignment readings. Too many shops try to "snow" the customer on alignments. Good luck.

 

[Greg Campbell]

How do you differentiate between wear induced by camber and wear caused by toe / alignment problems?

Also, I don't think many vehicles provide a way to easily adjust camber. You can shim control arm mounts, etc., but there is generally no 'set screw' to tweak. Tim, if you do have a camber problem, you might have some control arm bushings that are wasted, allowing the suspension geometry to got to hell. (Of course, worn components can mess up the toe as well.)

 

[Sam Stone]

If the car has a little bit of negative camber in the alignment stock (rare for most modern cars), and a lot of toe out (due to a bad alignment or worn bushings/joints), it'll do that. BTDT, I just replaced the tires on the Audi due to similar wear, had a balljoint that slipped loose (was mounted with slotted holes) and caused camber/toe to go out. Killed a tire in 3,000 miles.

Sam

 

[Chip Redmond]

I would also jack up the front and grab ahold of the tire with one hand on each side and shake it from side to side. See if there is any play from side to side. Do the same going up and down. If there is play then you have broken/loose front parts and the warranty wouldn't be any good.

Chip

 

[Rob Wadsworth]

The way that any shop/mechanic is going to determine where the wear points are - is to use a spring compressor to remove the pre-load on the front suspension. From this point while the suspension is dangling loose on the rack, a careful analysis and inspection of wear points can be easily determined and an estimate can be formulated.

I'm not going to candy-coat the cost of parts and labor. I would guess with moderate amount of part replacement - including front tires - may be between $700 and a grand. Depending what is wrong - of course. That is - if it is an American car. Japanese cars (FWD) could push it up an additional $200. Maybe more.

If nothing major - an inspection, alignment, and tire replacement should be $300~.
It will depend upon who is doing the work and their reputation...

If you want to keep this vehicle, the amount of mileage and the make of vehicle should be the primary elements of this choice. Also, the amount of TLC that the vehicle had received over the life of the vehicle is also an important consideration. Usually, a vehicle (say, a Honda) that wasn't abused nor misused, and had always been properly serviced - should be good for at least 200k miles. American cars are good for 150k.

Suspensions with normal wear may need the CV joints replaced @ 75-80k/mi. Struts, bushings, and McPherson cartridges may need replacing before 90k. It's really a question of how hard you were on the vehicle vs. how well you maintained it. These parts will eventually need to be replaced anyway - due to mileage. Clutches are good for 75-100k; auto-trans are good for 150k - if treated like a baby. It is alway a question of the power train vs load.

After years of being a pro mechanic owning my own shop (now retired), I take great care of my vehicle and service it as per suggested schedule. I certainly don't want to abuse it - as this will certainly only backfire into my own face.
No future in that.