Hey Gilbert,
Probably the biggest threat driving into Mexico is the red tape associated with such a venture. I've never actually been to Coahulia, but I did travel in northern Chihuahua and Sonora while I was working in El Paso... so I can offer the following info.
1.) Mexico Auto Insurance
Number 1 rule - You NEED *Mexican* auto insurance. Even if your US/Canadian policy says you're covered in Mexico, it is not good enough for Mexican authorities. You may be covered with Comp/Collision, but not for personal liability. Basically, in Mexico, an auto accident is considered a crime, not a civil offence. Your insurance is more or less bail. Even if you are not "at fault" ... if you are without Mexican liability insurance, and are in an accident... you can be held in jail until fault is determined. Even in a single car accident where you damage a curb, sign, etc.
Luckily, it's easy to get Mexican auto insurance, either online, or at someplace near the border (e.g., Sanborns). Single-day policies are a bit pricey, $25-35/day. There are discounts for multi-day policies, and especially for 3, 6, 12 month policies. When I was in El Paso, I think I was paying ~ $400 for an annual Mexico policy on my Outback, while US insurance for me at that time was $1200/yr (full coverage).
2.) The NAFTA Free Trade Zone
With insurance in-hand, you can cross the border with no other hoops and barrels, so long as you remain within the "Free Trade Zone" ... generally within 19km of the border (it's farther south in Sonora, and covers all of the Baja Peninsula).
When you cross the International border, the Mexican authorities typically just wave you through... no documentation checks at all. [This may change if the Passport rules go into affect in 2008, but hopefully that won't happen]. On major roadways, there will be a second customs checkpoint beyond the FTZ, where you'll need to show identification, as well as other documentation I'll explain next.
3.) Beyond the Free Trade Zone
If you wish to go beyond the Free Trade Zone... be prepared for major hoops... best to plan in advance... and give this whole process a good hour or so...
Cross the international border, using the "Declarations Lane." You may be directed to park your car and enter the customs building... or there may be a dedicated booth in the traffic lanes. Depends on the size of the border crossing.
Be sure to have identification including Driver's License, Birth Certificate or Passport, your valid auto registration, and... a
copy of the title to your car, or a
notarized letter from whatever bank your auto loan is serviced through, giving you permission to bring the car to Mexico. The title and registration must be in
your name.
You'll also need to have a major credit card.
At the Custom's office, you'll need to apply for a tourist visa. If you plan on returning more than once, ask for the maximum 180-day visa, which is good for multiple returns. You'll have to pay a fee for the visa of about $20. They'll direct you to a bank (usually attached to Customs) to pay the fee, and they'll stamp your visa as "paid" there.
Next, you'll go to the "Banjercito" office... where you'll apply for your temporary import sticker/certificate. Again, you'll pay another fee of about $30 for this service. They'll also take your credit card info as a bond guaranteeing you will return the car to the United States. If you have no credit card, you'll have to pay a refundable $200-400 fee (depending on year of the vehicle) to post bond. Basically, it's the importation costs of the vehicle if you were to leave it in Mexico permamently.
They'll give you a decal to put on your windshield.
Now you're all set.
However... the import certificate is good for 180 days, and you can come and go as you please. However...
You must "cancel" the import certificate **at the border** on/before the 180-day expiration date to prove the car was taken out of Mexico. Otherwise... they'll charge your credit card for the import fee, and you'll apparently be in deep "caca" if you are ever stopped by Mexican Customs on a future visit... they may even confiscate the vehicle.
With the tourist visa, car import sticker, and insurance... you're good to come and go as you please, until all that stuff expires.
On the Road...
State and National highways are well marked, and typically in fair condition. 2-lane highways often lack a decent shoulder or breakdown lane... something to keep in mind... but there are ample opportunities to pull over here and there. Speed limits, distances, are all makred in kilometers. There's typically a distance marker every 1km.
I've never driven on any of the multi-lane freeways, but these are often toll roads, which I understand are VERY expensive.
Speed limits in Mexico are rather slow, but you'll get wicked good fuel efficiency as a result. Speeds drop off dramatically nearing towns and villages, and often the speed drops off well before reaching the town. Mexicans do not follow their own speed limits, but I have seen Federales with speed traps... so Americano beware.
Get used to being passed by locals, truckers, etc on 2-lane roads on curves, in non-passing areas, etc.
Frankly, there is a lot of litter on Mexican highways, especially near the border. If pulling over, beware of broken glass, etc.
Also beware of vehicles with non-working brake lights, etc. It's not as bad as some say it is... while rural Mexico is very impovrished, you may be surprised by the number of really nice cars and SUVs you'll see on the road.
Oh yeah, and be prepared to stop for
Military Checkpoints. Here, a bunch of teenaged Mexican soliders, often not really in any identifiable uniform, and rarely speaking good english, will inspect your vehicle for drugs. They may tap on the sides of the car with strange instruments, etc. They also carry impressive semi-automatic weapons. These checkpoints are well-marked, and they generally only check you out if you are headed back towards the border. They're usually very friendly and won't give you a hard time. They may want you to get out of the car while they search... hand gestures and a smile work when verbal languages don't. It's all part of the adventure.
Gas Stations... are pretty much limited to the Federal gas company, Pemex. They can be quite modern, but for some reason they usually do not accept credit or debit cards, except in urban areas. They also expect Mexican currency (its good to have both... pay in local currency when you can, it's more respectful).
The prices are posted on the pumps, but not on any big signs. They are usually full-service too. If it's an old station, make sure the attendant clears the pump back to zero before pumping. Also, some stations still have leaded gas, so make sure you get unleaded unless you're trying to blend in by driving an old VW Bug.
Bring your own water to drink... or buy "agua purificada."
Chain restaurants/stores are virtually non-existent in rural areas. In larger cities like Chihuahua, you'll find Burger Kings, Walmarts, etc.
By in large, Mexicans are very friendly, honest people. But the border attracts criminals. Try not to draw too much attention to yourself or your equipment. Take the magnets and decals off the car if you have them. Border towns usually suck, and I'd be reluctant to park my car in them. However, I've heard Ciudad Acuna (across from Del Rio, TX) is a notable exception to the rule.
Maps
Two good online resources:
Maps-of-Mexico.com (This link will take you to the clickable map of Coahulia state... print them out and make an "atlas.")
NAME Project (Mexican Topo maps in high-res TIFs, leftover from the North American Monsoon Experiment in 2005). Includes roads. Excellent resource.
It looks as though road options are a bit limited west of MEX-29 in the foothills of the Serrianas del Burro. The little dashed line roads are most likely gravel/dirt roads which can be in crummy shape, if it's anything like northern Chihuahua. Not impassable... but beware of wash outs and the possibility of becoming cutoff by flooded arroyos. Definitely want 4WD/AWD for these roads.
"Banditos" ... probably an over-stated fear, in my opinion... but just be aware and alert at all times... especially in the border zone. One of these days I'd like to head out to the same area you're talking about to observe storms... and before doing so, I'd likely do my homework:
- Stop at the local Border Patrol office before crossing the border... or talk to an agent "on the beat." They'll probably know where a lot of the trafficking comes from in Mexico, and may know areas across the border to avoid. You'll need to be most concerned with drug traffickers, rather than your "run of the mill" illegal aliens.
- You may also wish to talk to the Mexican border officials, if they are friendly, and if they speak good english -- you don't want to talk about drugs and trafficking areas if there's any chance they may not completely comprehend what you're saying!
Good luck if you decide to go!
-Mike Hardiman
