Battery drain defenses

Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
3,257
Location
St. Louis
Unlike past inverters I've owned, the new 1200 watt model I bought this year drains my car battery very quickly when it is accidentally left on.

My setup is a main 12v bus in the trunk that is direct wired (and fused) at the main battery. All of my equipment, including the inverter, is powered via the 12v bus in the trunk. I have a main power switch under the steering wheel that shuts the entire circuit off manually, independent of the ignition. It needs to stay independent of the ignition (to keep systems running during fuel stops, for example).

This setup introduces the problem of me occasionally forgetting to switch the circuit off when I park for the night. With my old 750 watt inverter, the system would run for about 10 hours before draining the battery. This happened about twice a year with my old inverter, an acceptable number that I just dealt with. Now, the 1200 watt inverter drains it in about 3 hours, which has happened about a dozen times since May! This is obviously a problem that I now need to fix.

I'm aware of the dual-battery (deep cycle) setups using an isolator, but there are a couple of problems with this route. One, I drive a small car with no available space under the hood for a second battery. The second battery would need to go in the trunk. Two, a dual battery with isolator setup looks to be at least $200, and I'd also need to run an extra set of heavy gauge wire through the cabin of the car to reach the second battery. I'd like to do this without rewiring everything.

A disconnect switch (like a Priority Start) is the most attractive option, with a cost of about $100 and just a simple install at the battery. However, I'm worried that the unit will trip instantly if the engine is shut off, with my equipment circuit drawing power and likely dropping the voltage too much immediately. I'll have to go out with a voltmeter to see how bad the ignition-off voltage drop is. Does anyone have experience with these (in a storm chasing power systems environment)?

A third idea is a proximity sensor-like setup, with a permanent transmitter wired to the car's power bus. The receiver would be installed inside my apartment (the site of the most frequent battery drains), and would sound an alert if the power was left on that would act as a reminder when I go inside. I'm not aware of any device that could be repurposed to operate like this, and if the total cost would be less expensive than the other solutions.
 
I think I've figured this out. I'm going to connect a relay to the existing cigarette lighter circuit, which powers off when the ignition is off. Then, wire a buzzer to the inverter circuit, using the relay as the switch. When the ignition turns off, the relay closes - and if the inverter power is on, the buzzer sounds. Probably about $30 bucks in parts and should be foolproof. Probably will add an LED dash indicator light for extra insurance.
 
What you might do is use one powered USB outlet off the a/c side of the inverter for your indicators. That way you're not messing with 120V. Jameco (for example) has a piezo 80dB button for $2.25 that uses 1.5mA. I think all you need do is pull a (fused!) wire off any ignition-on circuit (like the lighter) through a ~3 kOhm resistor to ground. Run the USB power through the buzzer and a diode to the "hot" side of the resistor. When the ignition is on the buzzer is off. When the ignition is off and the inverter is on the buzzer gets 1.5mA, more or less. You could then also have a separate indicator LED that's on whenever the USB is powered as your second reminder. FWIW, from a non-engineer....
 
Here's a schematic of the circuit:

buzzer.jpg
 
Looks like it should work, when you use a teeny relay that can accept its coil energised indefinitely. Missed the part about the main power switch under the dash and was thinking of the switch on the inverter itself.... I take it that your schematic intends to show the "ignition switch" as closed, energising the relay and holding its contact open? Since you only need to switch a few miliAmps a relay might be overkill. The diode method should still work, I think, with a suitable resistor -- ~8k, for the 1.5mA "buzzer". Any old diode rated for 20 or more PIV should do the trick. When the ignition switch is closed the diode is always reverse-biased off. Just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks David, I'll look into the diode. I figured a very small relay will work since the buzzer will only be drawing a tiny amount of current.
 
have you looked into a timer. I know Law Enforcement using it in their vehicles. sets a 10 minute timer after the vehicle is turned off. When the time runs out all the radios and equipment turns off.

I know it is late, but is still something to look into.
 
Back
Top